Blog 46 - 27th to 31st July 2014

Sunday 27th - time to leave Mataranka and Bitter Springs - a truly magic place, with crystal clear blue warm water, and some amazing lush forest areas. We pack and head east towards Qld, with the aim to drive out via Roper Bar and the Limmen NP. Most of the road to Roper Bar is tar, but only one lane wide, so for each approaching vehicle, both parties need to hit a bit of dirt and slow down as we pass. The last 30 km's or so is dirt, with lots of small corrugations to make it interesting. I at least expected there to be a town, but all it really consists of is a general store and fuel station near to the airstrip, and a camping ground a few km's up the road. But it was on the map, so we had to visit. We top up with diesel and drive down to the causeway (the Bar itself) for some lunch beside the river, taking note of the now familiar "croc warning signs".

A quick drive across the bar, and then back again for some more photos before taking the road signposted to Borroloola - it was another 370 km's to this next town, and we had driven 180km's since Mataranka - only 550km's between towns out here, so don't forget something when you go shopping. Only 40km's up the road, we call into Tomato Island, which is a NP owned campsite, that is currently leased out to a couple who run it as their own. What a pleasant welcome we got, with the managers only too happy to help out, and to tell us about happy hour around the big red bus at 5pm. We set-up camp, read a book, walked down to the river and the boatramp,

and then grabbed a cold ale for the 5 o'clock festivities. There were about 30 other travellers around the circle, and we chatted until dinner time when we all returned to our camps to prepare the evening meal. A great spot with really nice facilities but no tomatoes, and not even situated on an island - go figure????

Monday 28th - we leave after breakfast, and venture further into the NP, headed for Butterfly Springs. We arrive about lunchtime and walk down to the pool for a look before back to camp for some lunch, and then wander back later for a cooling swim. We spot the resident Mertens water monitor (goanna) on the banks, and also marvel at the thousands of Common Crow butterflies perched on the rock walls in the shade.

As you approach, they all get startled and fly away, only to resettle in the same spot in about 15 seconds. The waterfall into the pool is only a slow trickle, but enough to keep the water sort-of clear, and certainly swim-able. We gather some wood and light a fire, and prepare to cook our roast in the camp oven - roast beef and lots of vegies - should last us 2 nights.

Tuesday 29th - Di goes for an early morning swim in the pool, and then we decide to try to get the keys to the gate that is locked into the Western Lost City - a 28km bumpy, dusty track into the bush, where at the end you will find some amazing sandstone sructures that are like rock columns out of the ground - or picture cans of Red Bull in a cafe fridge. The track in took nearly 90 minutes, with several rough sections requiring 4WD. Once we arrived at the Lost City, the temp was about 34 degrees, but we still decided to wander around for about an hour exploring these astounding formations.

We also found some bizarre "metallic green" bugs hanging in a bunch from a leaf, and some Aboriginal art drawn at the base of some rocks, with large trees roots hanging down in search of moisture from the walls above. On our way back to camp, the temp had reached 37 degrees, so we both went for a swim in the pool,

and also noticed the cormorant bird sunning its wings in the tree. There were also several whistling kites flying overhead, searching for a feed of fish jumping from the water. Left-over roast for dinner - yum!!!

Wednesday 30th - today we ventured to the Southern Lost Cty, following the main road south for 30km's before turning off onto a track for 4km's. Whilst it was the same sort of sandstone structures, these were much more separated from each other, and you could walk around and amongst them much easier. We grabbed hats and sunscreen, and set off for the 1.5 hour walk around the area, climbing the trail to the lookout, where there was yet another set of Lost City rocks off in the distance - so much for being lost - we had already found 3 sets in the last 2 days.

We continued our walk, marvelling at the strange sight of these rocks towering overhead, but tall and thin like tenpins - they also seemed to have a slight lean to one side which was a bit wierd. Back to camp for some lunch and another swim.

Some lamb chops cooked on the bbq tonight, and then we cooked a damper, which we will save for breakfast for the next 2 days.

Thursday 31st - damper with butter and raspberry jam for brekkie - yummo. We pack the camper, and then head down for another last swim before saying goodbye to Butterfly Springs - a lovely campsite, except for the smelly pit dunny. We have seen lots of wildlife in the few days we have been here. We continue south, crossing several creeks, some with water, but most are dry. At the end of the track, we decide to go left to Borroloola rather than right to Cape Crawford, and are now driving north east. After many, many mile of dirt roads, corrugations, and plenty of patches of bulldust (amazing how it puffs up to engulf everything), we finally hit the tar for the last 30km's into town. We arrive for a late lunch at the cafe of possbly the biggest burgers we have ever seen, and then book into the caravan park for the night to recharge the batteries in the camper - once we leave here, we will probably be another 8 or 9 days without 240V, so we need to be fully topped-up.

One of the strangest things we have seen in the last few days is the animal droppings from the feral buffalo - or to the lay-person - buffalo poop. They are up to dinner plate in size across, but it is the height that really throws you - up to nearly a foot high as well. Picture a 4 litre can of Taubmans paint and that is about the right size. What can possibly poop something that huge??? What does it eat to be able to achieve such a size??? And how big must it's bum be to push out something that big???

Just something to ponder.......

Tomorrow we will continue east, heading to Hells Gate (an actual place) and then to Doomadgee to get some groceries before the store shuts at 1.00pm on Saturday, before heading into KingFisher Camp (KFC) and then to Lawn Hill NP to camp beside the spring fed gorge for 4 nights - ah, its a tough life!!!!

More to come soon.

Di and Hammo