Thursday 24 April 2014

Blog 38 - 16th to 24th April 2014

Wednesday 16th April - today we leave Mildura, and start to head back out into the bush. First stop is just up the road at Wentworth, where we stopped in at the info centre to get some maps, and then went just out of town to the Perry Sandhills, which was a bit similar to Windorah.
Back to town for a coffee, before making our way down to the river to see where the Murray and Darling rivers meet.
A quick look at Lock 10 also, before making our way NE to Pooncarie, where we had lunch in the park and a quick look at the wharf where the steamboats used to stop. From here it was dirt, so we let the tyres down, and continued to Menindee, and then made our way out to Kinchega NP where we finally decide on a nice campsite on the banks of the Darling River and away from everyone else.

Thursday 17th - after a sleep in, we went exploring the NP, stopping first at the woolshed, where they have shorn over 6 million sheep, and 72,000 in the first year in the late 1800's.

From here to the old homestead site, where there is little to show except for some bricks and of course the chimney, which are the only things ever still standing. Back via the river road, where all the other campsites are located - we still think we made a good choice where we are. Past the PS Providore remains, which was really only the main boiler, after it exploded killing 5 crew. About half way back to camp we stopped at the weir, watching the pelicans dive for a feed. Got the fire going at camp, and cooked a roast. And after only 13 months on the road, I finally decided to make Di a damper (I had promised her one ages ago) - it would have passed on MasterChef and had Pete and Manu raving!!!

Friday 18th - we ate the damper for breakfast, but decided that golden syrup is very over-rated and jam is better. Decided to move onto Broken Hill today, so packed our house and headed off. On the way out of town, we stopped in at Lake Pamamaroo to see the free camps along the waters edge. Then back to have a quick look at Menindee Lake which had a fair bit of water in it. Arriving in Broken Hill, we book into the racecourse campsite, which has lots of lush green grass to camp on and is quiet. We went into town for a look around, but most things were closed as it was Good Friday - but of course the pubs were open, so we went into the Palace Hotel which is covered in painted murals on the walls and ceilings, and even under the staircases.
From here to the Mint and Art Gallery, where there is a 100 metre long painting, which is 12 metres tall formed in a circle, so you feel like you are walking into the middle of the artwork - very unique and an amazing effort - over 9 tonnes of paint.

Saturday 19th - up early for a walk before breakfast, and then we explore some more, starting at the Living Desert Sculptures atop a remote hill out of town. Some nice work, but some were way too confusing for either of us to work out.

Back to town and we stop in at Pro Hart's gallery - lots of spectacular paintings, and some really bizarre stuff too, but well worth it.

He also had several Rolls Royce's parked out the front, with one that he had painted.
Then to the other side of town to the Bells 50's Diner and we sample a milkshake, and a look at the retro collection. Then to the Regional Art Gallery, which had some beautiful works. And lastly a look around the "all new" shopping centre which the locals were all raving about - just another shopping centre, but exciting for them.

Sunday 20th - with all the shopping centres closed, we decide to hit another gallery, this time Jack Absolom. Di had never heard of him before, but he is famous for his landscapes, but also his TV shows from the ABC, and also his opal collection. The paintings were stunning, and really captured the colours and tones of the vast landscapes. We even met the man himself and had a chat - not bad for 86 years old. After this we drive out to Silverton, all 39 dips and all. We have a look at the old church,
do a couple more galleries, have lunch in the cafe, and also wander into the pub for a look.
Back to town for a relaxed afternoon.

Monday 21st - into town this morning to restock our pantry, and then we depart Broken Hill, heading west and into SA. We stop at Olary for lunch, and then continue on to Yunta, where we stop at the rest area for the night. A quiet night, with the sun setting in the distance.

Tuesday 22nd - after packing and refueling, we hit the dirt again, taking the Arkaroola road north, and the terrain is barren to say the least. Along the way we stop for a wander around the old ruins at Waukaringa, where the old pub is still sort of standing.
Once we turn off the Arkaroola Rd towards the Flinders, the scenery changes, with some hills and valleys, following the gorges until we hit the tar about 15km's south of Wilpena Pound. Just before this we climb the track to the top of Pugilist Hill lookout for the view over the ranges - breathtaking. Once we arrive at Wilpena Pound, we stop at the info centre and decide to stay in the resort, albeit in an unpowered site out the back for $23 per night - but they do have flushing toilets and hot showers. We do some washing and get the fire going to cook our roast for dinner. We sit around the fire chatting to our neighbours.

Wednesday 23rd - we decide to do a walk today from camp into the pound, climbing to Wangara lookout - a 7.8km round trip. It is only a narrow channel to enter the pound, with huge rugged mountains all around, and it would have been very difficult for the early settlers to graze stock and reap harvests from within the area. The views from the lookout are very nice, with another massive range in the background.
We wander back to camp for lunch. In the afternoon we decide to explore some more, driving around to Black Gap lookout, and walking along the creek bed to see some views of the area. On the way back we stop to look in at Elder Range and Rawnsley lookout
- we could also see the Chase Range with the sun shining making the view excellent.
Back to camp for a quick look through the shop, where Di buys a photograph book on the Flinders Ranges. Then to our camp to set the fire going again, as it is roast night AGAIN - doing it tough.

Thursday 24th - we decided that another hike was the order of the day, so packed our gear and drove to the northern end of the park to Bunyeroo Gorge. But on the way, we stopped in at the Valley lookout, which was simply amazing, with spectacular views over the ranges - the colours were unlike anywhere else we have been.
 
 
From here we continued to the carpark and set off on the walk, a leisurely 8km return along the creek bed. The views were not bad, with many examples of different rocks and formations to see, but not much else.
Back to the car, we continued north to Brachina Gorge where you are able to drive along the creek bed between the gorge walls - the colours again were magnificent.
Then back towards camp, stopping along the way at Aroona ruins to see the remains of the homestead, but also to see where Hans Heysen stayed while doing many of his paintings of the local area. From here along a lot more dirt road, before we join up with the Blinman road and turn south. We detour to climb Stokes Hill lookout, which has magnificent 360 degree views over the mountains, and looking back towards Wilpena Pound - the views are simply stunning and we simply stand and watch for about 30 minutes.



On the way back to camp, we collect some more wood for the fire, and reheat the remainder of last nights lamb roast.
 
Tomorrow we will leave Wilpena Pound and drive further north to Arkaroola, where we hope to do some more walks, and also the ridge-top tour. Then to Maree to the start of the Oodnadatta track, and lots more dirt and dust.
 
More to come soon.
 
Di and Hammo


Tuesday 15 April 2014

Blog 37 - 28th March to 15th April 2014

Friday 28th March - after a late night spent chatting with Gina, we are slow out of bed this morning, and spend most of the day waiting for the washing to dry before we hitch up the camper and leave Aireys Inlet and Gina's wonderful hospitality - thank-you agin for looking after us. We drive further up the coast, stopping in at Bells Beach for a quick look at the surfers,
and then into Torquay for a brief drive-thru. Then further around the coast until Point Lonsdale, where we are due to stay with our friends Gus and Lorraine who we spent 4 fun-filled days with in Boulia at the camel races.
We are greeted at the front door with beaming smiles, and we quickly confirm why they are great fun to be around. Back the camper into the backyard, and settle inside in the spare room - ah luxury again. Gus cooks up some fresh fish and chips, and we all chat for ages catching up on what has happened in the last 8 months or so.

Saturday 29th - my birthday - Gus has to work today on the ferry from Queenscliff to Sorrento, but has arranged for us to sneak aboard for a free return trip.
After doing some washing and more chatting, we head down to the terminal and wander aboard, sneaking into the captains deck. On arrival in Sorrento,
we wander around the town, stopping at the art gallery, then lunch at a noodle shop, before finding a great driftwood horse in a homewares shop.
Back to the ferry for the return journey, climb up the tower at the marina,
and then a quick drive around town to see some of the old buildings

and the black lighthouse
before back to "home" after getting things for dinner. We cook chicken and kumara curry for Gus who comes home at 8pm from his day on the ferry.

Sunday 30th - a slow start to the day, then Gus drives us around the local area, including to see the steam train leave on its journey after blasting a VERY loud whistle and the Point Lonsdale lighthouse where he used to work.
Then back to pick-up Lorraine, and we go exploring a bit further afield - to St Leonards, Portarlington, Indented Heads, Drysdale and Leopold. Also met the kids and grandkids. Gus is a spectacular cook and made a magnificent nasi goreng, learnt from their many trips to Bali.

Monday 31st - another lazy breakfast, then we hooked up Gus boat and launched it at the Queenscliff marina. Once out in the bay, we headed for a small rock outcrop where gannets nest and rear their young.
From here a bit further out to the seal colony on the platfrom, where a group from another boat were snorkelling with the seals.

We dropped Di back to the wharf and Lorraine picked her up, whilst Gus and I went out through the heads and tried a bit of fishing - but no luck, with only 1 small fish on the line.
Packed up and came back in, cleaned the boat out and chatted more into the night.

Tuesday 1st - we got up a bit earlier and went for a walk around the suburb, stopping at a pond to watch the ducks and then down to the beach. After packing some things away in the camper, we all drove out to Barwon Heads
and 13th beach for a look at the views back towards the heads. Bought a leg of lamb to roast for dinner, then did a bit more shopping, before a final sit down with Gus and Lorraine for a gorgeous meal.

Wednesday 2nd - another walk before breakfast, this time along the foreshore and a really nice sunrise. A sad goodbye to Gus and Lorraine, who have looked after us like royalty, and will be missed, but we are planning to join them in Bali sometime soon. We head towards Melbourne, detouring via Geelong for a quick look along the foreshore, before re-joining the freeway into Melbourne.
Once out the other side, we follow directions to Ferntree Gully, and stock up with some essentials before arriving at John and Noelene's place, where we back the camper up the driveway and set up camp. Over the next few days, we will also meet their 3 children (Bonnie, Dom and Georgia) and their respective partners, and will also spend lots of time with their little Jack Russel / Blue Heeler who is named Lenny.

Thursday 3rd - John has decided to build a studio in the backyard for his daughter, and has got as far as having the foundation holes dug - so we get to work coating the stumps, transporting the concrete from the front yard to the holes, and then setting the stumps in place, ensuring all square and level. It's been a while since some manual labour, but it was fun to learn some new skills and help out. Di helped Georgia plan for dinner, and then Noelene finished off the last few steps, before we all sat down together.

Friday 4th - John and Noelene took us out to the Dandenongs for a walk and to see the sights. We started with a walk in the mountains, and then a drive, stopping in at Sassafras for coffee and a cake. Back home for lunch, before we head out to get things to make dinner - never cooked for 8 before, but it turns out nice and keeps the hoards happy. John's dad arrives for dinner and will stay a few days too.

Saturday 5th - Di makes apple pancakes for everyone this morning, before we head to Belgrave Station to take a trip on Puffing Billy, the old steam train. We decide to only go half-way and then return, and it costs us $93.00!!!!
Wow transport is expensive. Some lovely views along the way, winding through the mountains, with lots of trees and fern-filled gullies. Back to town for lunch before a drive around the area. The entire family go out to a 21st, so we are left alone in a big house for the night by ourselves - we watch TV.

Sunday 6th - Noelene's mum came for a visit this morning, and she is a very funny old chook. Georgia's boyfriend is playing this afternoon in the VFL game for Casey, so we all decide to go along and watch him play. After dropping John's dad home, we drive to Essendon to see the game, armed with blankets, thermos and lunch. The game is fantastic, and lots of fun. The finish is one of the most exciting we have ever seen, with the lead swapping several times in the dying moments, and Casey winning by a goal in the last few seconds. After dinner, everyone goes out again and we are home alone again - only Lenny to keep us company.

Monday 7th - a quiet morning, with the kids going to work, Noelene going off to dance camp for a few days, and John waiting for all his timber to arrive for the building project. Di does a drawing of Lenny, and when the wood finally arrives, we move it arround to the backyard. Georgia's boyfriend comes in the late afternoon to lay all the plumbing, so we give him a hand, before a yummy roast dinner and another quiet night.

Tuesday 8th - we say our goodbyes to all before work, and then John goes to an interview. But the pest man turns up, so we wait for John to return before heading off. Another wonderful few days spent with a great family - thanks to the Taylors for looking after us and letting us camp in your driveway. We drive north out of Melbourne, stopping in at Di's brothers house for a quick sticky-beak and to leave a short note for them (they are in Sydney for a few days). We arrive in Rochester - between Bendigo and Echuca - in the mid afternoon, and are again met at the door by some smiling faces - Charlie and Wendy who we met in Burketown. They offer us a bed in the spare room, which we gladly take as the rain has started and is due to continue for a few days. We chatted for hours, catching up with what has been happening in their lives.

Wednesday 9th - the rego on the trailer is due, and we need to arrange a safety inspection, so we drag it into Moama to get this done, and while we are out, we stop in at Echuca to do some shopping, where Wendy buys an e-reader for her next trip away. We spend the afternoon setting up her new toy, and chatting some more, before we cook dinner of meat pies and veges. Has rained all day.

Thursday 10th - after much discussion last night, Wendy has decided she wants a tablet as it will be easier to read than her small phone. So we all jump in the Triton and drive the hour down to Bendigo to JB HiFi to do some more shopping. After lunch in a cafe, we head back home to play with the new, new toy. Has rained all day again.

Friday 11th - a nice clear morning, so we decide to make the most of the weather and re-visit Echuca and spend some time wandering around the port and looking at the paddlesteamers.
We then wander through town, have some fish and chips for lunch, and waste a few hours looking at things to buy. Back home to cook hamburgers, and spend more time playing / teaching with the new tablet.

Saturday 12th - Charlie plays golf this morning, and Wendy has a plumber coming, so we decide to return to Bendigo for a bit more of a wander around, given the weather is still nice and sunny. We start at the info centre, before walking to the art gallery, and from here to the Sacred Heart Cathedral up on the hill - what a spectacular building, with super-high ceilings, stained glass windows, and lots of ornate stone work.
Then to the Chinese Dragon museum, which houses the longest parade dragon in the world.
Lots of other nice artefacts, including a solid jade carriage used for weddings.
Lunch at a Chinese restaurant, before a wander through Rosalind Park and the hothouse.
Then to the Mothers garden, before a walk around the Chinese gardens.
From here to the poppet head, where we climb to the top for the views over town.
Back to Rochester to watch the footy (Eels beat the Roosters), and then a wonderful meal of rack of lamb and veges. Wendy fires up the tablet again, and plays many games of Jewels Star - she is hooked!!!

Sunday 13th - we awake this morning knowing that we will be back in the camper again. We say goodbye to Charlie and Wendy - it has been really lovely spending time with them again, and we look forward to seeing them soon. We head north to the Murray River, and then north-west towards Mildura. We stop in at Koondrook for a quick drive along the river-front, before continuing to Lake Boga for some lunch overlooking the water. Next to Swan Hill to the info centre and art gallery, before going a bit further up the road to Nyah and camping in the recreation reserve besides the river. A bit wierd putting up the camper after so many nights staying in luxury, but also nice to be out in the bush again.

Monday 14th - we go for a walk before breakfast, and then pack up and move out after filling the tanks with water. Have a quick drive through the town of Nyah West, before heading to Robinvale, where we stop for a coffee. It is here that Di's brother Mark calls to ask where we are. When we tell him we plan to be in Mildura tonight, he says that is where he will be so we plan to meet up for dinner. We drive through Euston and then stop at a park in Gol Gol for lunch.
We arrive in Mildura mid afternoon and book into a caravan park for 2 nights, and then go shopping for supplies. We meet Mark for dinner, and it is great catching up with him and chatting for a few hours.

Tuesday 15th - we decide to explore around Mildura for the day, stopping first at Rio Vista house and the art gallery.
Then to Lock 11 to watch the paddlesteamer and houseboats move along the river via the lock - very interesting to see the gates close and the water subside or rise as required.

Then to Old Mildura Homestead for a wander around
before lunch at the bakery. Then to the botanical gardens, where we spend some time walking around the rose garden,
and see some Sturts desert peas.
From here to Red Cliffs to the lookout and boardwalk. Finally to Woodsies Gem shop which is worth a look, before back to camp for dinner.

A massive thank-you to Gina, Lorraine and Gus, Noelene and John and family, and finally to Wendy and Charlie for allowing us to spend some time with them in their houses - it was greatly appreciated, and made us feel special. When we finally get back to a normal life and have a home of our own, you are all most welcome to come and visit any time.

We will leave Mildura tomorrow, and head to Pooncarrie and Menindee lakes, before Broken Hill for a few days exploring. Then back into SA and then the NT.

More to come soon.

Di and Hammo