Wednesday 16th April - today we leave Mildura, and start to head back out into the bush. First stop is just up the road at Wentworth, where we stopped in at the info centre to get some maps, and then went just out of town to the Perry Sandhills, which was a bit similar to Windorah.
Back to town for a coffee, before making our way down to the river to see where the Murray and Darling rivers meet.
A quick look at Lock 10 also, before making our way NE to Pooncarie, where we had lunch in the park and a quick look at the wharf where the steamboats used to stop. From here it was dirt, so we let the tyres down, and continued to Menindee, and then made our way out to Kinchega NP where we finally decide on a nice campsite on the banks of the Darling River and away from everyone else.
Thursday 17th - after a sleep in, we went exploring the NP, stopping first at the woolshed, where they have shorn over 6 million sheep, and 72,000 in the first year in the late 1800's.
From here to the old homestead site, where there is little to show except for some bricks and of course the chimney, which are the only things ever still standing. Back via the river road, where all the other campsites are located - we still think we made a good choice where we are. Past the PS Providore remains, which was really only the main boiler, after it exploded killing 5 crew. About half way back to camp we stopped at the weir, watching the pelicans dive for a feed. Got the fire going at camp, and cooked a roast. And after only 13 months on the road, I finally decided to make Di a damper (I had promised her one ages ago) - it would have passed on MasterChef and had Pete and Manu raving!!!
Friday 18th - we ate the damper for breakfast, but decided that golden syrup is very over-rated and jam is better. Decided to move onto Broken Hill today, so packed our house and headed off. On the way out of town, we stopped in at Lake Pamamaroo to see the free camps along the waters edge. Then back to have a quick look at Menindee Lake which had a fair bit of water in it. Arriving in Broken Hill, we book into the racecourse campsite, which has lots of lush green grass to camp on and is quiet. We went into town for a look around, but most things were closed as it was Good Friday - but of course the pubs were open, so we went into the Palace Hotel which is covered in painted murals on the walls and ceilings, and even under the staircases.
From here to the Mint and Art Gallery, where there is a 100 metre long painting, which is 12 metres tall formed in a circle, so you feel like you are walking into the middle of the artwork - very unique and an amazing effort - over 9 tonnes of paint.
Saturday 19th - up early for a walk before breakfast, and then we explore some more, starting at the Living Desert Sculptures atop a remote hill out of town. Some nice work, but some were way too confusing for either of us to work out.
Back to town and we stop in at Pro Hart's gallery - lots of spectacular paintings, and some really bizarre stuff too, but well worth it.
He also had several Rolls Royce's parked out the front, with one that he had painted.
Then to the other side of town to the Bells 50's Diner and we sample a milkshake, and a look at the retro collection. Then to the Regional Art Gallery, which had some beautiful works. And lastly a look around the "all new" shopping centre which the locals were all raving about - just another shopping centre, but exciting for them.
Sunday 20th - with all the shopping centres closed, we decide to hit another gallery, this time Jack Absolom. Di had never heard of him before, but he is famous for his landscapes, but also his TV shows from the ABC, and also his opal collection. The paintings were stunning, and really captured the colours and tones of the vast landscapes. We even met the man himself and had a chat - not bad for 86 years old. After this we drive out to Silverton, all 39 dips and all. We have a look at the old church,
do a couple more galleries, have lunch in the cafe, and also wander into the pub for a look.
Back to town for a relaxed afternoon.
Monday 21st - into town this morning to restock our pantry, and then we depart Broken Hill, heading west and into SA. We stop at Olary for lunch, and then continue on to Yunta, where we stop at the rest area for the night. A quiet night, with the sun setting in the distance.
Tuesday 22nd - after packing and refueling, we hit the dirt again, taking the Arkaroola road north, and the terrain is barren to say the least. Along the way we stop for a wander around the old ruins at Waukaringa, where the old pub is still sort of standing.
Once we turn off the Arkaroola Rd towards the Flinders, the scenery changes, with some hills and valleys, following the gorges until we hit the tar about 15km's south of Wilpena Pound. Just before this we climb the track to the top of Pugilist Hill lookout for the view over the ranges - breathtaking. Once we arrive at Wilpena Pound, we stop at the info centre and decide to stay in the resort, albeit in an unpowered site out the back for $23 per night - but they do have flushing toilets and hot showers. We do some washing and get the fire going to cook our roast for dinner. We sit around the fire chatting to our neighbours.
Wednesday 23rd - we decide to do a walk today from camp into the pound, climbing to Wangara lookout - a 7.8km round trip. It is only a narrow channel to enter the pound, with huge rugged mountains all around, and it would have been very difficult for the early settlers to graze stock and reap harvests from within the area. The views from the lookout are very nice, with another massive range in the background.
We wander back to camp for lunch. In the afternoon we decide to explore some more, driving around to Black Gap lookout, and walking along the creek bed to see some views of the area. On the way back we stop to look in at Elder Range and Rawnsley lookout
- we could also see the Chase Range with the sun shining making the view excellent.
Back to camp for a quick look through the shop, where Di buys a photograph book on the Flinders Ranges. Then to our camp to set the fire going again, as it is roast night AGAIN - doing it tough.
Thursday 24th - we decided that another hike was the order of the day, so packed our gear and drove to the northern end of the park to Bunyeroo Gorge. But on the way, we stopped in at the Valley lookout, which was simply amazing, with spectacular views over the ranges - the colours were unlike anywhere else we have been.
From here we continued to the carpark and set off on the walk, a leisurely 8km return along the creek bed. The views were not bad, with many examples of different rocks and formations to see, but not much else.
Back to the car, we continued north to Brachina Gorge where you are able to drive along the creek bed between the gorge walls - the colours again were magnificent.
Then back towards camp, stopping along the way at Aroona ruins to see the remains of the homestead, but also to see where Hans Heysen stayed while doing many of his paintings of the local area. From here along a lot more dirt road, before we join up with the Blinman road and turn south. We detour to climb Stokes Hill lookout, which has magnificent 360 degree views over the mountains, and looking back towards Wilpena Pound - the views are simply stunning and we simply stand and watch for about 30 minutes.
On the way back to camp, we collect some more wood for the fire, and reheat the remainder of last nights lamb roast.
Tomorrow we will leave Wilpena Pound and drive further north to Arkaroola, where we hope to do some more walks, and also the ridge-top tour. Then to Maree to the start of the Oodnadatta track, and lots more dirt and dust.
More to come soon.
Di and Hammo
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