Wednesday 25th June - today we head into Kakadu - a place that a lot of people we have met along the way in our trip have said to not worry about - "Kaka-don't" many of them say - it's not worth going to. But we are going anyway, as we like to make up our own mind, and I am sure that there will be lots to see and do. First stop is at the turn-off to Gunlom Falls where we check the map, and prepare for some more dirt road. The first 25km's is generally good, with the last 12km's a bit worse, but still OK - we meet some backpackers in a Commodore and a Falcon on their way out, so it can't be too hard. After picking our site for the night, we walk to the waterhole at the bottom of the falls but decide not to go for a swim as very few are in the water and there are lots of croc signs about.
Back for lunch, before we decide to do the climb to the top of the falls and go for a swim up there - crocs can't climb, can they??? The views on the way up are spectacular out over the surrounding area, but once at the top, it just gets sooo much better. The rock pools each step down from the last, until they fall over the edge into the waterhole below.
The view over the edge, with the rock pool is just like the promo shots. We swim in several of the pools, climbing over the rocks.
At the top is a gorge that flows back into the mountain,
but it is too late in the day for an explore, so we climb back down to camp, have some dinner, and then join the ranger for the slide show under the palm trees.
Thursday 26th - we pack and head back out to the tar. First stop is Bukbukluk (say it like a chicken!!!) lookout with views over the fire-burnt area. Then another dirt track into Maguk waterhole where we park and walk to the end of the track.
The waterfall into the pool looks astounding, but no-one else is swimming, and the fear of crocs is in the air, so after a very quick jump-in, jump-out we head back to the car for some lunch. Then it is a quick dash up the highway to Jabiru to meet up with the Cummings family and their friends. We manage to grab the very last site at the caravan park and set up before a swim in the pool. Then into town for a quick look, before being invited to join the group for an Indian feast and chatting until late into the night.
Friday 27th - we join the Cummings for a drive out to the wetlands region 45km's west, and complete a couple of walks which both end with a platform to look over the water, with lots of water lillies, some fish, and I'm sure a few crocs lurking under the surface. Back to the car for lunch under a big shady tree, and then back home for a relaxing afternoon reading and drawing. Another evening with the group - drinking, chatting, feasting, and listening to the AC-DC covers band play tunes into the night from down at the Club.
Saturday 28th - today we go off exploring into the Ubirr region. First up we do a walk amongst the rock formations and along the edge of the river. Then we explore around Cahill's Crossing, which is the road into the Coburg Peninsula. The water is flowing across the causeway, and lots of people are fishing.
It is not long before a crocs floats downstream, and in the flow of water over the causeway, gets caught-up and surfs across the edge, mouth open hoping to also catch a fish or maybe a fisherman. As each croc approaches, a whistle is heard amongst the fishermen, which is the signal to watch your toes and take a few steps out of the water - very risky way to catch a fish. But we see a lot of fish caught in the next 30 minutes, so it must be worth it. A bloke next to us tells us the fish in his bag came from one of the guys fishing, who decided that a 60cm barra was not big enough to worry about, so he gave it away. A bit later a 3-trailer road train full of cattle comes across the causeway - the weight enough to ensure he is not pushed into the water by the current.
Next is Ubirr rock, where there is lots of rock-art to be seen, and then the walk to the lookout over the green wetland area - the same view as in Crocodile Dundee movie.
The views are awesome from the top, and this is what my image of Kakadu was all about.
Back to camp where we meet up with a Dutch family who are travelling with their 4yo son for 3 months in a hired Hilux camper. Then another night with the big group, and more drinks, food and chatting.
Sunday 29th - we are all leaving Jabiru today, so we say goodbye to our new friends Di, Grant and kids, and then also to the Cummings who are heading west to the Kimberleys. We decide to drive back south a bit and go into Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls. Again, another dirt road, so we let tyres down and after 50km's of reasonably good dirt, we arrive at camp and set-up. We decide to drive to Twin Falls and have a look. We get to the river crossing and select low-range 1st before entering the water - and not looking at the croc signs
- all good and out the other side to continue on to the carpark. After a short walk from the carpark, it is a short trip on the ferry - $12.50 pp to get taken through the gorge to a spot where you can walk the remainder to the falls.
Wonderful views on the way to the falls. Once there, it's like a beach with an area of sand and then a massive waterhole, and of course the falls themselves.
The gorge surrounds us on 3 sides, and it is a beautiful scene that you must see one day. We retrace our steps back to camp.
Monday 30th - after a bit of a sleep-in, we decide to do the walk to Jim Jim Falls, and go for a swim. The drive to the carpark is uneventful, and we set off on the 900 metre walk. The views up the valley are stunning, with the cliffs in the background.
The walk progressively gets harder as you go further, until the last few hundred metres are climbing and clambering over rocks until you arrive at the edge of the pool where the waterfall above tumbles down into.
The water is very cold as the area gets very little sun, and the waterhole is over 60 metres deep. The surrounding rocks that have fallen from high above are massive, and the whole area would shake if one was to fall. We find a small beach area off to the side, with a beautiful clear swimming hole, and decide to take a dip.
The water is cold but refreshing, and this is a magic spot to spend an hour or so. There are lots of small fish joining us. You cant stay in one place too long or they nibble on your toes. The walk back to the carpark seems a bit easier. Once back at camp, we start a fire, have some dinner, and chat with our neighbours into the evening.
Happy EOFY to all you accountants back at home!!!!!
Tuesday 1st July - we ask the Ranger which is the best walk to do, and he says the top of Jim Jim is the best, so we set-off with some snacks, water and our swimming gear. It is 6km's return, but the sign says to allow 6-8 hour - I don't mention this to Di. We cross the river and start heading uphill. It is not too long before we are climbing, and looking for trees to help us get up the next rockface. It is becoming very difficult, and a bit scary too. After 1 hour and 20 minutes, we have finally got to the top and completed about 1km of the walk - again, I do not mention this to Di. We are both quite exhausted, but continue on. The walk across the top is much easier, with only a bit of climbing required to clamber out of the dry creek channels. Finally we spot the pools at the top of the falls, and follow the track markers to the edge of the falls. It has taken us 3 hours to walk the 3km's to this point and we are buggered. But we can only see down to the next level, and there is another set of falls and another pool before it finally falls off the top down into the massive deep pool below. Di waits by the waterhole, determined not to walk any extra steps, but I must get a photo from the very top looking back down the valley. A bit more rock-hopping and I get to the spot for the photo - what a view!!!!
Just astounding, with massive boulders balancing at the edge - very spectacular. I return to join Di, and we jump in for a swim in the cold water - very refreshing.
Then we follow the track back, and then start the climb down, which is a bit harder but much easier. After 2 hours, we are back at the carpark, and are spent - no more walks for a few days.
Wednesday 2nd - after packing, we drive the 50km's of dirt back to the highway, and then detour into Cooinda, which is a resort and camping ground. We have a coffee by the pool, make some calls, and then drive to Yellow Waters where the cruise boats leave for trips up the waterways. Very green and lush, with water lillies and lots of birds, but also lots of mozzies too.
We then go to the Cultural Centre, which is quite good and worth seeing, before some lunch in the carpark. We then drive a bit further to Muirella camping ground where we relax in the shade of the afternoon. A quiet relaxing day is much needed.
Thursday 3rd - after leaving camp, we decide to tackle Mirrai lookout, which is a 1.6km return walk. A slow walk to the top, but the views are nice, with different aspects at each turn. Then to Nourlangie which is a large rocky outcrop which has lots of Aboriginal art under the overhangs.
Another walk around each of the sites and to the lookout, before back to Jabiru for some lunch. We have now seen just about all of Kakadu, and we have really enjoyed it. We can understand how people can be disappointed, especially if they stick to the tar, as there is very little to see, and much of the scenery from the highway is very bland and boring. But once you get onto the dirt and start exploring, the sights are truly magic, and the waterholes are very special - we really enjoyed it. On the drive towards Darwin, we decide to stop at Mary River Retreat for the night, and it is lovely to be camped on lush green grass for a change. A swim in the pool is nothing like a natural waterhole but not too bad either.
Friday 4th - we continue towards Darwin, stopping along the way to do the jumping crocodile cruise up the Adelaide River. For $35pp, we get an hours cruise, and they get the crocs to jump for the buffalo chunks 4 times before they are rewarded with a feed.
It is amazing how far they can get out of the water, but they look really funny doing it with their little front legs dangling beside their bodies. We also spotted some very large crocs along the banks getting some sun. Well worth doing, but also reinforces the scariness of these deadly lizards. From here it only a short drive to Coolalinga where we book into the caravan park for our time in Darwin - $40 a night for a small patch of dirt and some demountable facilities, but it is also much cheaper than other places, and most other places were fully booked. We meet up with Allan and Joy again, who are staying in the same park.
Saturday 5th - Allan has a migraine, so we kidnap Joy and go off to explore Darwin city. We park at Doctors Gully and catch the "hop-on, hop-off" bus to do the loop around the city, before jumping off to explore the areas of interest. We get off at the mall, and wander around the shops, stopping for a coffee. Back on the bus and we go out to East Point Reserve for a quick look, and then back to the waterfront for some lunch.
We then watch people enjoying the wave pool, and make a note to come back later in the week. Then back to get the car, and we drive to the Botanical Gardens, and have a walk around. We then meet Allan back at East Point Reserve for drinks and nibbles as we watch the sun setting over the ocean - very picturesque.
Sunday 6th - Allan and Joy are departing for Kakadu, so we head to Woolies for a re-stock, and then drive back into town for the Mindil Markets and Beer Can Regatta. Firstly down to the beach to see hoardes of people watching the fun events, where boats are made out of beer cans and then paddled around a course.
But the sun is so hot, we retreat back to the shade of the trees surrounding the markets. Lots to see and do, with food of all flavours, and many varied stalls selling everything from clothes to artworks to tarpaulin hats. We wander around until it is time to grab some dinner and plonk on the beach to again watch the sunset over the water.
Another magic night with the temp finally falling below 30 degrees - not bad for winter!!!!
Monday 7th - a lazy day, with a visit to the big shopping centre at Casaurina for a wander around, then back to camp to get our hair cut by a lady in the caravan park, and then a lazy day at camp chatting, and Di cooks a big pot of chicken soup for dinner.
Tuesday 8th - Triton goes in for a service today, so we catch the courtesy bus into town and spend the day wandering around. First the shops, then to the wave pool, where we spend a few hours swimming and relaxing under the shade. Then a late lunch at the mall, before walking back to the Mitsubishi dealer to be told the cost of the service is $500 more than what was quoted the day before. After much arguing and several attampts, the bill is reduced to what I was quoted and we leave, disappointed in the lack of service again.
Wednesday 9th - another day exploring, this time out to Fogg Dam where there are lots of magpie geese and other birds roosting in the wetlands. From here to Berry Springs, which is similar to Bitter Springs in that it is quite natural, with crystal clear water flowing through, but the pools between the channels are much bigger and deeper - a great place for a swim and to cool off.
We float downstream, from pool to pool, and watch some kids (both big and small) swinging off a tree rope into the water. Back to camp to "pretty up" before heading into town again to the casino for some dinner before the SOO game, where NSW are crushed by QLD. Di invests some money on the roulette table, and has a small win, but then loses this, so we leave, having contributed to the NT economy a small amount.
Thursday 10th - after a very relaxed morning, where our neighbour cooks us some stir-fry noodles, we drive to Howard Springs Nature Park for a wander around. This was originally the water supply for Darwin before the dam was built. Lots of big barra's floating around in the dam, but not allowed to swim due to the algae in he water. A bit more of a drive around the suburbs and into Palmerston, and then back to camp.
Friday 11th - we help the neighbour load his Harley onto the trailer, before going out to explore the northern suburbs of Darwin around Casaurina Coastal Reserve. We see Dripstone Park overlooking the beach, Brinkin, Tiwi, Rapid Creek, and Nightcliff. Then to the shopping centre for lunch and then back to camp, where the place is packed again - must be a weekend thing, as during the week it got emptier each day. On the way into town from Kakadu, I was craving some pizza, so we find a shop in Palmerston and go out for dinner tonight - IT WAS GOOD!!!!
Tomorrow we will do some more food re-stocking as we plan to leave for Litchfield tomorrow for the next week or so - looking forward to a few more days swimming and exploring.
More to come soon.
Di and Hammo
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