Check out our blog 30 - I have uploaded some pictures of the beaches around Esperance - some of the nicest beaches we have been to.
Monday 20th Jan - left Esperance and headed East to Cape Le Grande NP to spend a few days. Got there and had to choose between staying at Lucky Bay (more tourists) or Le Grande Beach (more locals) so we chose the locals camping area. What a great choice this was. We had a pick of 5 sites, and got one that was a bit protected, facing north, and with a private toilet for only 3 sites. But the big winner was the beach just over the small sandhill - what a spectacular sight, with more blinding white sand, stunning turquoise blue water, and islands off in the distance.
And at the back of us was the mountain ranges, with Frenchmans Peak in the distance. After setting up, we head to the beach for a swim, where it was colder out of the water than in it - but nice for a cool off.
Then some lunch before jumping in the car for a short drive to Frenchmans Peak for a walk / climb up to the top. By this time, the wind was howling, and the sheltered areas at the top were pleasant, but the climb back down was a bit hairy. The views from the top was amazing, with beaches off in the distance.
Stopped in a massive cave near the top, and got mobile reception so made a few calls.
Tuesday 21st - after a windy night, and waking to an overcast day, we decided to drive to each of the bays / inlets / beaches. Di jumped in the drivers seat and we headed for Rossiter Bay first (named after David's great grandfather), and then to Lucky Bay
where the other campsite was - a lot bigger in area, but also more crammed in too. Then to Thistle Cove,
before finally into Hellfire Bay, which gets our vote as the best beach in the area by far. Back to camp for lunch and then another swim, and a shower later to wash the salt water off.
Wednesday 22nd - today is Di's big birthday, so she has decided we should stay another day and spend some time back at Hellfire Bay.
After lots of time wanting the water to get a bit warmer, we finally take the plunge and go for a swim off the rocks and paddle around to the beach. Then we sit up on the rocks warming up in the sun. Back to camp again for lunch and a leisurely afternoon. A bit later we go for a walk along the rocks at the end of the beach, and then we chat to our neighbours late into the night.
Thursday 23rd - we were planning on heading to Cape Arid and then the back road up to Balladonia, but the huge storms in Kalgoorlie are moving towards that area, so we decide to return to Esperance and up to Norseman before crossing the Nullarbor. As we are about to leave, we meet up with some friends from Cape Range near Exmouth who are driving back to town along the beach, so we decide to join then for the 22km's of sand driving and then a bit of tar, rather than the 60km's of tar. It was lovely driving along the sand, looking out at the water.
We are in Norseman for lunch, and then start our way across the Nullarbor, stopping at Fraser Range rest stop for the night. Since leaving Esperance, it been raining on and off, and it is quite different seeing this area with lots of water around and being in the low-20's - something we didn't expect after hearing it was mid-40's the previous week.
Friday 24th - left the free spot and continued east, stopping first at Newman Rocks (a sloping rock shelf) and then Caiguna blowholes (a small hole in the rocks about 2 metres deep). We had wanted to see Baxter Cliffs (hoping it would be a bit more spectacular), but with all of the rain, the road was closed. Then past Cocklebiddy and Madura, before stopping 10km's before Mundrabilla at another free rest area for the night.
This will be our last night in WA, and in all we would have spent over 5 months in WA - an amazing state, with so much to see and do.
Saturday 25th - first stop today was Eucla, where we drove to the telegraph station which is slowly being consumed by the moving sand dunes.
Then we cross the border into SA,
and we change the clocks - all of a sudden it is afternoon, and we seem to have not got far today. We stop in at the 3 lookouts along the coast, which allow fantastic views along the Great Australian Bight and the cliffs along the coast.
We then hit the actual Nullarbor Plains, which are exactly as they are described - a treeless plain with only low scrub. On and on we drive, until we take a turn-off to Fowlers Bay, where we book into the caravan park for the night. A nice spot right on the water, with massive sand dunes behind town that look like they might consume it at any moment. With the change of time zone, it now becomes dark much later (after 9pm) so this messes with our heads a bit.
Sunday 26th - we also found that the sun comes up much later (around 7am) so we got to see our first sunrise in a long time when we went for a walk / run around town.
After packing, we head first to Cactus Beach which is renowned for its surfing, and then through Penong, before we finally get close to Ceduna where the quarantine check-point is. Rather than go through, we detour out to Denial Bay for lunch (and to finish off the last of our fresh fruit and veges) before back through the check-point and a quick look around Ceduna. From here we drive down the Eyre Peninsula, stopping in at Smoky Bay and Haslam, before finding a great spot right on the sand at Perlubie Beach.
After setting up next to a shelter we go in for a swim, but the water is very shallow and even after walking out a fair way, the water still only comes up to our thighs - but deep enough to fall in and cool off. We watch the sun set over the water.
Monday 27th - had breaky overlooking the ocean, and then packed and continued exploring along the coast. Had a quick look around Streaky Bay, and then to Sceale Bay.
Then to Point Labatt
where we drive out to the lookout and watch some sea lions basking in the sun, while others are frolicking in the water and you would swear they were playing a game of "chasings" - lots of fun to watch.
Then to Port Kenny and Venus Bay where we had some lunch overlooking the bay. had a walk along the jetty and then up to the lookout. Drive further south to Walkers Rocks to camp for the night. Had a swim at the lagoon beach and then a cool shower to wash off the salt water.
Tuesday 28th - after packing up the camper, we went for another swim, this time at the open beach where the water was MUCH colder, before back for a shower again and breakfast. Stopped in at Elliston for a coffee, and then the info centre. Did both of the cliff drives around town, with some really nice views over the limestone cliffs.
Further south was Locks Well to the lookout, and then we decide to continue to Port Lincoln to re-stock with supplies, and also to arrange our NP passes for the next 2 months - $80 which covers park entry and all camping fees. Then we book in at the caravan park for 2 nights, do some shopping, and then go out for dinner at the Pier Hotel, where we both have seafood - Port Lincoln is the biggest fishing fleet in Australia, and is where most tuna is caught.
We plan to visit both Coffin Bay NP and Lincoln NP while we are here, and then will head north east up the other side of the Eyre Peninsula.
More to come soon.
Di and Hammo
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