Friday 10th Jamuary 2014 - had a lazy morning with a bit of a sleep-in, before driving towards Denmark to the dinosaur / bird / reptile park. Upon entry, they have lots of skeletons of different dinosaurs, and these are surrounded by glass cabinets where the snakes and lizards are kept. Outside are lots of cages for the birds, mainly parrots, but there are also lots of birds that are simply sitting on tree branches, and are quite tame.
We arrived just in time for the reptile show, and got to hold several lizards
and snakes, before venturing outside to look at the birds. Some were really cute and were happy to sit on your shoulder for a chat. Back to camp at Walpole for lunch, and then a short walk around the park down to the waters edge. Di completes a painting later in the afternoon, and then we chat to the neighbours for a while.
Saturday 11th - left Walpole this morning to continue our journey east. On the recommendation of James and Amy, we decide to stop in at Parrys Beach to see if we could get a spot (it was the weekend, and this is a VERY popular spot to camp as it is only $10 per site per night). Managed to luck it well, and another couple were wanting to mind a spot for friends who were coming the next night, so we looked after it for them. Had a quick walk down to the beach
before driving towards Denmark to check-out the sights. First stop was Greens Pool and Elephant Rocks - what an awesome spot - absolutely on the must-do list. A very protected beach area surrounded by rocks, with turquiose water - truly beautiful.
We then walked around the headland to Elephant Rocks,
where there were massive granite boulders sitting in the water like islands, with the waves slowly pushing through - lots of rocks to jump off. Had a swim here before heading back to the car and into Denmark for a wander around and some lunch at the bakery. Also stopped in at an art gallery and chatted to the artist for a while - she recommended Boat harbour, so our return back to Parrys Beach we stopped in there - a long dirt corrugated road, but it was worthwhile for the views around the coastline.
Back to camp for a cold shower - the solar hot water had run out.
Sunday 12th - left Parrys Beach and continued east to Albany, stopping in at Cosy Corner beach and Shelley beach on the way. Nice campspot at Shelley, but only for tents - right on the beach and protected from the wind too. On arrival into Albany we drove to the top of Mount Melville and climbed the communications tower to get a 360 view over the town.
Drove to Middleton Beach for lunch and then out to Emu Beach for a quick look before deciding on a caravan park for the night out of town besides the King River. Back into town for a drink at the pub and dinner in a chinese restaurant for a treat. We had planned to do some shopping today but everything was closed - small town syndrome.
Monday 13th - we decide to get the door zippers on the trailer fixed, so take this to a canvas place and all done by mid-morning. From here we went to whale world which was the last whaling plant in Australia, closing in the 1970's. Spent a few hours walking around and did the tour, and then saw some films. Then spent some time looking at the beaches and headlands in the area - Misery beach which was lovely despite the name, Salmon Holes which was spectacular and would have loved to have a surfboard,
then to The Gap - a big split in the granite where the waves crashed through, and then to Natural Bridge where the granite underneath has eroded, leaving a rock bridge spanning approx 15 metres. Did some grocery shopping and then back to camp for dinner.
Tuesday 14th - today we decided to explore Porongurup NP and do some of the walks in the area. Only about 35km's north of Albany. The first walk we came to was Castle Rock, which also had the Granite Skywalk, so donned the hiking boots and set-off. The walk was only 3.5km's return trip, but it was all uphill on the way there, and lots of steps. So by the time we reached the top, we were tired. But it was well worth it, as after a small climb over some boulders and then up a ladder, the skywalk along the side of the granite mountain was amazing, and the views seemed to go on forever across the plains and to the Sterling Ranges - absolutely stunning.
We had planned to do another walk, but were too tired so we continued driving to Mt Barker where we had some lunch before turning back towards Albany. Stopped in at the Vancouver Art Gallery for a while, and then to Mt Adelaide ANZAC memorial which had awesome views over the local beaches and King George Sound out to the islands and the ocean.
A coffee in town and then back to camp.
Wednesday 15th - we left Albany and headed to the Sterling Ranges to do some more walks. After setting up the trailer in the campsite, we drive to Mt Trio as it is the shortest walk and the day is quite hot. What we hadn't planned on was another walk all uphill, this time with many more steps, and most of these were very high steps too and quite rough. We seemed to be climbing for ages, with lots of stops along the way to catch our breath. The climb got the better of Di and she called it quits, but I was determined to reach the summit and I assumed it was only a bit further - I was wrong and it was a fair bit further but the views from the top were worth it.
It was surprising how hard it was coming back down, as the knees took all the stress climbing down the steps. Back to camp to relax.
Thursday 16th - our plan was to climb Bluff Knoll today, which was 6km's return and 3-4 hours - so we got up early and were hitched up and ready to depart by 8.00am.
Unfortunately the weather was not our friend today, and the low cloud and intermittant rain changed our plans - but our legs were quite happy with this result. Headed back towards the coast, again going east. Stopped in at Bremer Bay for a look
and then entered Fitzgerald NP and drove out to Point Ann along a lot of dirt tracks.
Another spectacular scene with white beaches, turquoise water, and wonderful rocky headlands. Had lunch by the water in a nice sheltered area. From here we follow more dirt tracks towards Hammersley, but the camping areas are closed for renovations, so we continue around the coastline past East Mt Barren to Four Mile Beach campsite where we spend the night.
Friday 17th - up early for a swim at Barren Beach,
with the hope of seeing lots of fish whilst snorkelling - but not much happening, but nice for a swim anyway. Back to the camper for a quick rinse, and then off to Hopetoun - had a quick look around, stopping at the lookout. Decided to take the dirt road along the Southern Ocean Rd to Mason Bay (where we watched some stingrays cruising along the shallows searching for a meal)
and Starvation Bay (where we had some lunch) which were both great campsites right on the water - would have loved to have stayed for a few days at each. From here more dirt before turning off to Stokes Inlet which was described as "picturesque" but we thought was only "OK". Continued on to Esperance, where we arrived late afternoon and went straight to a campsite at The Yabbie Farm.
Saturday 18th - went to the info centre and then to do some shopping as Esperance is another town that closes at 1pm on Saturday. Went to the tanker jetty and walked to the end - the wind was howling through. Then to the Rotary lookout atop the hill overlooking the town and beaches, and also out towards lots of islands in the bay and beyond - very pretty.
Had lunch in the park before a short walk around the marina and then to an art gallery in town. Then out to Lake Woody and Lake Windabout just north of town, then a coffee at Macca's and back to camp.
Sunday 19th - today we did the Great Ocean Drive, which leaves Esperance and heads south-west along the coast for 11 miles before turning inland around the Pink Lake and back to town. Only about 40 km's but took us several hours as there are so many beaches and headlands to stop at along the way. The beaches are stunning, but after a while you get a bit blase about them. In order they were West beach,
Blue Haven,
Salmon beach, Fourth beach, Twilight beach,
Observation beach, Nine Mile beach, Ten Mile lagoon, and finally Eleven Mile beach.
Everyone raves about Twlight beach, and while it was very nice, my pick was West beach. And the Pink Lake is not pink, but a light blue. We stopped back at West beach to go for a swim, but the wind was howling still (almost a constant in WA - windy always) so we didn't end up going in. Had some lunch in town, and then visited the museum for a few hours before back to camp. Dning with our neighbours tonight before we head off tomorrow for Cape Le Grande and Cape Arid, and then start our way across the Nullarbor.
More to come soon.
Di and Hammo
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