Blog 31 - 20th to 28th January 2014

Check out our blog 30 - I have uploaded some pictures of the beaches around Esperance - some of the nicest beaches we have been to.

Monday 20th Jan - left Esperance and headed East to Cape Le Grande NP to spend a few days. Got there and had to choose between staying at Lucky Bay (more tourists) or Le Grande Beach (more locals) so we chose the locals camping area. What a great choice this was. We had a pick of 5 sites, and got one that was a bit protected, facing north, and with a private toilet for only 3 sites. But the big winner was the beach just over the small sandhill - what a spectacular sight, with more blinding white sand, stunning turquoise blue water, and islands off in the distance.

And at the back of us was the mountain ranges, with Frenchmans Peak in the distance. After setting up, we head to the beach for a swim, where it was colder out of the water than in it - but nice for a cool off.

Then some lunch before jumping in the car for a short drive to Frenchmans Peak for a walk / climb up to the top. By this time, the wind was howling, and the sheltered areas at the top were pleasant, but the climb back down was a bit hairy. The views from the top was amazing, with beaches off in the distance.

Stopped in a massive cave near the top, and got mobile reception so made a few calls.

Tuesday 21st - after a windy night, and waking to an overcast day, we decided to drive to each of the bays / inlets / beaches. Di jumped in the drivers seat and we headed for Rossiter Bay first (named after David's great grandfather), and then to Lucky Bay

where the other campsite was - a lot bigger in area, but also more crammed in too. Then to Thistle Cove,

before finally into Hellfire Bay, which gets our vote as the best beach in the area by far. Back to camp for lunch and then another swim, and a shower later to wash the salt water off.

Wednesday 22nd - today is Di's big birthday, so she has decided we should stay another day and spend some time back at Hellfire Bay.

After lots of time wanting the water to get a bit warmer, we finally take the plunge and go for a swim off the rocks and paddle around to the beach. Then we sit up on the rocks warming up in the sun. Back to camp again for lunch and a leisurely afternoon. A bit later we go for a walk along the rocks at the end of the beach, and then we chat to our neighbours late into the night.

Thursday 23rd - we were planning on heading to Cape Arid and then the back road up to Balladonia, but the huge storms in Kalgoorlie are moving towards that area, so we decide to return to Esperance and up to Norseman before crossing the Nullarbor. As we are about to leave, we meet up with some friends from Cape Range near Exmouth who are driving back to town along the beach, so we decide to join then for the 22km's of sand driving and then a bit of tar, rather than the 60km's of tar. It was lovely driving along the sand, looking out at the water.

We are in Norseman for lunch, and then start our way across the Nullarbor, stopping at Fraser Range rest stop for the night. Since leaving Esperance, it been raining on and off, and it is quite different seeing this area with lots of water around and being in the low-20's - something we didn't expect after hearing it was mid-40's the previous week.

Friday 24th - left the free spot and continued east, stopping first at Newman Rocks (a sloping rock shelf) and then Caiguna blowholes (a small hole in the rocks about 2 metres deep). We had wanted to see Baxter Cliffs (hoping it would be a bit more spectacular), but with all of the rain, the road was closed. Then past Cocklebiddy and Madura, before stopping 10km's before Mundrabilla at another free rest area for the night.

This will be our last night in WA, and in all we would have spent over 5 months in WA - an amazing state, with so much to see and do.

Saturday 25th - first stop today was Eucla, where we drove to the telegraph station which is slowly being consumed by the moving sand dunes.

Then we cross the border into SA,

and we change the clocks - all of a sudden it is afternoon, and we seem to have not got far today. We stop in at the 3 lookouts along the coast, which allow fantastic views along the Great Australian Bight and the cliffs along the coast.

We then hit the actual Nullarbor Plains, which are exactly as they are described - a treeless plain with only low scrub. On and on we drive, until we take a turn-off to Fowlers Bay, where we book into the caravan park for the night. A nice spot right on the water, with massive sand dunes behind town that look like they might consume it at any moment. With the change of time zone, it now becomes dark much later (after 9pm) so this messes with our heads a bit.

Sunday 26th - we also found that the sun comes up much later (around 7am) so we got to see our first sunrise in a long time when we went for a walk / run around town.

After packing, we head first to Cactus Beach which is renowned for its surfing, and then through Penong, before we finally get close to Ceduna where the quarantine check-point is. Rather than go through, we detour out to Denial Bay for lunch (and to finish off the last of our fresh fruit and veges) before back through the check-point and a quick look around Ceduna. From here we drive down the Eyre Peninsula, stopping in at Smoky Bay and Haslam, before finding a great spot right on the sand at Perlubie Beach.

After setting up next to a shelter we go in for a swim, but the water is very shallow and even after walking out a fair way, the water still only comes up to our thighs - but deep enough to fall in and cool off. We watch the sun set over the water.

Monday 27th - had breaky overlooking the ocean, and then packed and continued exploring along the coast. Had a quick look around Streaky Bay, and then to Sceale Bay.

Then to Point Labatt

where we drive out to the lookout and watch some sea lions basking in the sun, while others are frolicking in the water and you would swear they were playing a game of "chasings" - lots of fun to watch.

Then to Port Kenny and Venus Bay where we had some lunch overlooking the bay. had a walk along the jetty and then up to the lookout. Drive further south to Walkers Rocks to camp for the night. Had a swim at the lagoon beach and then a cool shower to wash off the salt water.

Tuesday 28th - after packing up the camper, we went for another swim, this time at the open beach where the water was MUCH colder, before back for a shower again and breakfast. Stopped in at Elliston for a coffee, and then the info centre. Did both of the cliff drives around town, with some really nice views over the limestone cliffs.

Further south was Locks Well to the lookout, and then we decide to continue to Port Lincoln to re-stock with supplies, and also to arrange our NP passes for the next 2 months - $80 which covers park entry and all camping fees. Then we book in at the caravan park for 2 nights, do some shopping, and then go out for dinner at the Pier Hotel, where we both have seafood - Port Lincoln is the biggest fishing fleet in Australia, and is where most tuna is caught.

We plan to visit both Coffin Bay NP and Lincoln NP while we are here, and then will head north east up the other side of the Eyre Peninsula.

More to come soon.

Di and Hammo

Blog 30 - 10th to 19th Jamuary 2014

Friday 10th Jamuary 2014 - had a lazy morning with a bit of a sleep-in, before driving towards Denmark to the dinosaur / bird / reptile park. Upon entry, they have lots of skeletons of different dinosaurs, and these are surrounded by glass cabinets where the snakes and lizards are kept. Outside are lots of cages for the birds, mainly parrots, but there are also lots of birds that are simply sitting on tree branches, and are quite tame.

We arrived just in time for the reptile show, and got to hold several lizards

and snakes, before venturing outside to look at the birds. Some were really cute and were happy to sit on your shoulder for a chat. Back to camp at Walpole for lunch, and then a short walk around the park down to the waters edge. Di completes a painting later in the afternoon, and then we chat to the neighbours for a while.

Saturday 11th - left Walpole this morning to continue our journey east. On the recommendation of James and Amy, we decide to stop in at Parrys Beach to see if we could get a spot (it was the weekend, and this is a VERY popular spot to camp as it is only $10 per site per night). Managed to luck it well, and another couple were wanting to mind a spot for friends who were coming the next night, so we looked after it for them. Had a quick walk down to the beach

before driving towards Denmark to check-out the sights. First stop was Greens Pool and Elephant Rocks - what an awesome spot - absolutely on the must-do list. A very protected beach area surrounded by rocks, with turquiose water - truly beautiful.

We then walked around the headland to Elephant Rocks,

where there were massive granite boulders sitting in the water like islands, with the waves slowly pushing through - lots of rocks to jump off. Had a swim here before heading back to the car and into Denmark for a wander around and some lunch at the bakery. Also stopped in at an art gallery and chatted to the artist for a while - she recommended Boat harbour, so our return back to Parrys Beach we stopped in there - a long dirt corrugated road, but it was worthwhile for the views around the coastline.

Back to camp for a cold shower - the solar hot water had run out.

Sunday 12th - left Parrys Beach and continued east to Albany, stopping in at Cosy Corner beach and Shelley beach on the way. Nice campspot at Shelley, but only for tents - right on the beach and protected from the wind too. On arrival into Albany we drove to the top of Mount Melville and climbed the communications tower to get a 360 view over the town.

Drove to Middleton Beach for lunch and then out to Emu Beach for a quick look before deciding on a caravan park for the night out of town besides the King River. Back into town for a drink at the pub and dinner in a chinese restaurant for a treat. We had planned to do some shopping today but everything was closed - small town syndrome.

Monday 13th - we decide to get the door zippers on the trailer fixed, so take this to a canvas place and all done by mid-morning. From here we went to whale world which was the last whaling plant in Australia, closing in the 1970's. Spent a few hours walking around and did the tour, and then saw some films. Then spent some time looking at the beaches and headlands in the area - Misery beach which was lovely despite the name, Salmon Holes which was spectacular and would have loved to have a surfboard,

then to The Gap - a big split in the granite where the waves crashed through, and then to Natural Bridge where the granite underneath has eroded, leaving a rock bridge spanning approx 15 metres. Did some grocery shopping and then back to camp for dinner.

Tuesday 14th - today we decided to explore Porongurup NP and do some of the walks in the area. Only about 35km's north of Albany. The first walk we came to was Castle Rock, which also had the Granite Skywalk, so donned the hiking boots and set-off. The walk was only 3.5km's return trip, but it was all uphill on the way there, and lots of steps. So by the time we reached the top, we were tired. But it was well worth it, as after a small climb over some boulders and then up a ladder, the skywalk along the side of the granite mountain was amazing, and the views seemed to go on forever across the plains and to the Sterling Ranges - absolutely stunning.

We had planned to do another walk, but were too tired so we continued driving to Mt Barker where we had some lunch before turning back towards Albany. Stopped in at the Vancouver Art Gallery for a while, and then to Mt Adelaide ANZAC memorial which had awesome views over the local beaches and King George Sound out to the islands and the ocean.

A coffee in town and then back to camp.

Wednesday 15th - we left Albany and headed to the Sterling Ranges to do some more walks. After setting up the trailer in the campsite, we drive to Mt Trio as it is the shortest walk and the day is quite hot. What we hadn't planned on was another walk all uphill, this time with many more steps, and most of these were very high steps too and quite rough. We seemed to be climbing for ages, with lots of stops along the way to catch our breath. The climb got the better of Di and she called it quits, but I was determined to reach the summit and I assumed it was only a bit further - I was wrong and it was a fair bit further but the views from the top were worth it.

It was surprising how hard it was coming back down, as the knees took all the stress climbing down the steps. Back to camp to relax.

Thursday 16th - our plan was to climb Bluff Knoll today, which was 6km's return and 3-4 hours - so we got up early and were hitched up and ready to depart by 8.00am.

Unfortunately the weather was not our friend today, and the low cloud and intermittant rain changed our plans - but our legs were quite happy with this result. Headed back towards the coast, again going east. Stopped in at Bremer Bay for a look

and then entered Fitzgerald NP and drove out to Point Ann along a lot of dirt tracks.

Another spectacular scene with white beaches, turquoise water, and wonderful rocky headlands. Had lunch by the water in a nice sheltered area. From here we follow more dirt tracks towards Hammersley, but the camping areas are closed for renovations, so we continue around the coastline past East Mt Barren to Four Mile Beach campsite where we spend the night.

Friday 17th - up early for a swim at Barren Beach,

with the hope of seeing lots of fish whilst snorkelling - but not much happening, but nice for a swim anyway. Back to the camper for a quick rinse, and then off to Hopetoun - had a quick look around, stopping at the lookout. Decided to take the dirt road along the Southern Ocean Rd to Mason Bay (where we watched some stingrays cruising along the shallows searching for a meal)

and Starvation Bay (where we had some lunch) which were both great campsites right on the water - would have loved to have stayed for a few days at each. From here more dirt before turning off to Stokes Inlet which was described as "picturesque" but we thought was only "OK". Continued on to Esperance, where we arrived late afternoon and went straight to a campsite at The Yabbie Farm.

Saturday 18th - went to the info centre and then to do some shopping as Esperance is another town that closes at 1pm on Saturday. Went to the tanker jetty and walked to the end - the wind was howling through. Then to the Rotary lookout atop the hill overlooking the town and beaches, and also out towards lots of islands in the bay and beyond - very pretty.

Had lunch in the park before a short walk around the marina and then to an art gallery in town. Then out to Lake Woody and Lake Windabout just north of town, then a coffee at Macca's and back to camp.

Sunday 19th - today we did the Great Ocean Drive, which leaves Esperance and heads south-west along the coast for 11 miles before turning inland around the Pink Lake and back to town. Only about 40 km's but took us several hours as there are so many beaches and headlands to stop at along the way. The beaches are stunning, but after a while you get a bit blase about them. In order they were West beach,

Blue Haven,

Salmon beach, Fourth beach, Twilight beach,

Observation beach, Nine Mile beach, Ten Mile lagoon, and finally Eleven Mile beach.

Everyone raves about Twlight beach, and while it was very nice, my pick was West beach. And the Pink Lake is not pink, but a light blue. We stopped back at West beach to go for a swim, but the wind was howling still (almost a constant in WA - windy always) so we didn't end up going in. Had some lunch in town, and then visited the museum for a few hours before back to camp. Dning with our neighbours tonight before we head off tomorrow for Cape Le Grande and Cape Arid, and then start our way across the Nullarbor.

More to come soon.

Di and Hammo

Blog 29 - Sunday 22nd December 2013 to Thursday 9th January 2014

Sunday 22nd December - parked the camper and Triton in the storage area at Advent Park, and caught a taxi to Perth airport for our trip back to Sydney to see family for Xmas. Arrived in Sydney after 5.00pm and got our hire car for the week, and then proceeded to get stuck in Sydney traffic - oh how we missed this over the last 9 months!!!! A break-down in the M5 tunnel had caused mayhem, and we didn't get to Di's mums place until after 7.00pm. To say she was happy to see us was an understatement - and she knew we were coming.

Monday - we took mum shopping in the morning and got a few things done, and then in the afternoon Di went into her old work and said Happy Christmas to her "oldies" that she used to entertain each day. Had a quiet night at home.

Tuesday - got the final things for the lunch celebrations, and then we went to spend the afternoon with Sharon and Grant for Xmas. Out on the back deck at their place, we chatted over all the things that had happened in our lives for the last little while, and had the odd ale or 2 and some wines. Some more wine and champagne over dinner, before grant and I broke open the scotch and proceeded to drink the bottle dry - not much we were saying made much sense - he's a VERY bad influence on me. Di drove home to mums.

Wednesday - woke up a bit bleary but all good for the big family lunch. Matthew came over before lunch and stayed for a while until he had to go for another lunch across town. We were joined by David's family and Emanuel's family, and all sat down to a feast. More food than you could possibly eat, and lots of full bellies afterwards.

Thursday - packed up the left-overs into an esky and drove over to the Langstaffs, parking down the street so they couldn't see us arrive (we were in a non-descript hire car anyway). We wanted to sneek in and surprise them, but they were sitting in the loungeroom at the front of the house. Unbeknowns to us, they had discussed with the Campbell's about creating "Hammo and Di" masks and taking pictures to send to us as we couldn't be there for the traditional Boxing Day celebrations. As we wandered across the lawn, Simon's first reaction was that the Campbell's had outdone themselves with the masks until he realised it was actually us, and then the screams started. It was awesome being able to surprise not only them, but also the Campbell's, the Rollsey's, and young Mick. Lots of fun throughout the day, and was really great to catch-up.

Friday - Di had arranged to spend the day with Matthew and do some shopping and chatting, so the boys told me I had to join them for the day starting in Parramatta at the Bavarian Beer Cafe for lunch, and then into Balmain for drinks after. A long day ensued, with way too much money spent, but lots of laughs. Di had a great day with Matthew and got to catch-up with what was happening in his world.

Saturday - Di dropped me to the end of the earth to catch-up with Mitchell, while she had coffee with Matthew and his girlfriend Stephanie. After some time with her mum, she picked me up in the afternoon, and then we had a final dinner with Mum, Matthew and Steph,

and then back to mums for the night.

Sunday - up at 4.20am to get to the airport for the flight back to Perth - it was going to be a long day. On arrival in Perth, we caught a taxi back to Advent Park to pick up our home, and headed south, with the aim to get about half-way to Busselton. We finally stopped in at Pinjarra after re-stocking with food and supplies, and lunch at Jarrahdale in the park. Once we were set-up in the bush setting of the caravan park, we went for a walk along the river, and were in bed early.

Monday - on the way south we detour into Leschenault Inlet and have a look at the lake before the mozzies make us retreat from the area.

 

From here into Australind and then into Bunbury where we have a look around, and have lunch beside the marina. From here we drive to the lookout tower,

and climb the steps to the top to take in the views over town.

From here we follow the coast SW to Busselton and towards Dunsborough to the caravan park we had booked months ago (unpowered site is $40 per night - and this was only a dirty, sand spot in between some trees). Soon Rhys and Effie arrive, and after chatting a bit, we head to the apartment that James and Amy have rented for the fortnight for a further catch-up and dinner. It was great to be able to spend some time with them and hear about their adventures - and for Rhys and Effie to have driven across the country in 4 days just to spend NYE and a few days with us was awesome.

Tuesday (NYE) - after a walk along the beach before breakfast, we head into Busselton and spend most of the day looking around. Went cossie shopping, visited the art gallery, saw a guy doing some glass blowing and making pendants, and walked along the foreshore and had a coffee overlooking the water. Some last minute supplies for tonight, and back to the caravan park to pick-up Rhys and Effie before arriving back at James and Amys for the night. We all chatted lots more over nibbles and hot finger food (party pies and sausage rolls and pasties - with sauce of course - yummo). We watched the 9.00pm fireworks, and then waited around for the midnight fireworks, by which time we were all tired and way oveerdue for bed. Did the countdown, wished all well, and then headed for bed.

Wednesday 1st January 2014 - Happy New Year to everyone - after another walk along the beach, this time the opposite way, Amy and James had invited us back for a cook-up for breakfast at a leisurely 10am.

Then went for a swim in the resort pool, before Effie and Di went down to the beach for a swim while we all relaxed. We all played a couple of games of Logo, before we all head into Busselton for the walk along the jetty

- 1.8km's out to the end, dodging the fisho's along the way.

Back to camp for an early night.

Thursday - Rhys and Effie

and James and Amy are heading off today to do some exploring, so we say goodbye and decide to spend our day exploring the area NW of Dunsborough to Cape Naturaliste lighthouse. First stop was Dunsborough beach, then Meelup beach,

and from here to Gannet Rock.

Then Point Picquet, and onto Sugarloaf Rock.

From here to the lighthouse, and then to Bunker Bay for a coffee overlooking the beach. Then to Eagle Bay where we have some lunch while watching the waves. Then back into Dunsborough and spend some time looking through town and the shops, especially the photo gallery. We buy some scones from Coles and drive via the new housing estate to the beach and have our afternoon tea again overlooking the water.

Friday - another day of exploring, this time south of Dunsborough along the western beaches. First stop was Yallingup

and then Smiths beach. Then into the art galeries, where we visited 4 and saw some amazing works (but also some very expensive works). From here to Canal Rocks, where the surf rushes through a small channel in the rocks.

Had lunch just up the hill overlooking this beautiful area, and the bays look just like a love heart - use your imagination people!!!

From here to Injidup beach to watch some surfers carving up the waves, and then to  Cape Clairault, before finally to Moses Rock. Another day spent exploring some spectacular beaches and coastline. James and Amy had returned from their trip with Rhys and Effie, so we all sat down to Di's minestrone soup for dinner back in the caravan park.

Saturday - we cleared the back seat of the Triton and James and Amy jumped in to spend the day exploring some more with us. First stop was the Yallingup Art Exhibition, which featured lots of local artists. Next we went to Gracetown and stopped at both the South and North points. Next was Cape Mentelle where the Margaret River flows into the ocean. From here to Prevelly

and then to Gnarabup, before driving into margaret River to have some lunch along the river, where there were lots of marron swimming in the shallows. After lunch we parked the car in the main street and did some retail therapy, buying lollies, ice-creams and thickshakes and coffees. From here it was back through the wineries, stopping in at Wills Domain for a coffee overlooking the vineyards. Back to camp via Coles at Dunsborough to get supplies for dinner.

Sunday - time to say goodbye to James and Amy, who are heading north to Fremantle and Perth, while we are heading south towards Augusta. Along the way we stop in at Gralyn winery to taste the chocolate port - very, very nice, but at $55 per bottle we couldn't justify the $$$. From here to Redgate beach which was packed so we continued to Witchcliffe which was a lot smaller than we had imagined. So without stopping, we continued on to Cape Freycinet

and Contos Inlet, where we went for a short walk over the rocks. Then south through the Boranup forest, where we had lunch amongst the karri trees.

From here we took a detour to the coast again, stopping in at Hamelin Bay which was picture postcard lovely, but the water was too cold to go for a swim - sounding like Qld'ers aren't we?

Finally into Augusta where we book into a caravan park to recharge the batteries in the camper.

Monday - had a quick drive through Augusta looking at the beaches, before heading to Cape Leeuwin lighthouse, which is the most SW point of mainland Australia.

Paid our money and did the audio tour around the grounds, but couldn't climb the tower - need to pay more money for that. We saw the point where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet, but the line was only very faint - you might be able to make it out below.

From here we back-tracked, stopping in at Point Matthew so Di could get a photo for her boy.

From here we head north to Karridale, and then east towards Pemberton, where we decide to stay in the Warren NP along the river. Had a swim in the river before dinner.

Tuesday - continue south, via Northcliffe and Mount Chudalup (where we climbed to the summit)

and then to Windy Harbour, which surprisingly is not really windy at all - very unlike WA. Had a walk along the beach, before driving out to Cathedral Rock,

and then to Point D'Entrecasteaux, where we walked to the lookout over the cliffs down to the ocean - very spectacular.

Back to Northcliffe and the info centre, and then out to the picnic area at HollowButt, a massive tree that had the centre hollowed out by a fire. We then follow lots of tracks from the OziExplore topo maps rather than along the highway, finally finding our way to the main road, and arrive at Fernhook Falls camping area for the night - a great bush setting, with our own hut, water tank, and a camp kitchen just down from us. Had a walk down to the river, and went for a quick swim, where the water was lovely and warm for the top 20cm's but quickly got cold as you went down a bit.

Wednesday - after packing up, we did the loop walk around the campsite, and then drove through the bush to Mount Frankland, where we did the walk to the summit - over 300 steps, including a couple of ladders.

The view from the top, which also happens to be a fire lookout point is magical, and we could see the rain clouds moving across the valley below us. From here we drove to Walpole, stopping along the way at the Swarbrick Art Loop, which is a short walk through the bush to see art that didn't make any sense at all - very confusing, but the trees were nice.

Stopped in at Crystal Springs campsite, and then drove out to Mandalay Beach, which had stunning views out to Chatham Island.

Back to Crystal Springs for some lunch,

before dropping the camper into the caravan park where we had booked for 2 nights. Had a quick look around the town of Walpole, and had a coffee and cake at the bakery, and then across the road to the info centre.

Thursday - did the tree top walk through the forests of tall karri trees and the rare red tingle trees (which were not in fruit - ha, ha, get it???)

These trees only grow in a very small area, and they grow from the inside out, so that the bit just below the bark is the actual structure, and as they grow taller, the trunk becomes very thick at the base, becoming up to 20 metres around. As the trunk gets thicker, it starts to hollow out, and after fires etc, they can become big enough to walk underneath - truly amazing to see. From here we follow the trail to Peaceful Bay and drive out onto the beach, and then out to Conspicuous Cliff (who names these places???) which is very spectacular, with a stunning beach backed by rugged mountains and cliffs.

We go for a walk along the beach and onto the rocks at the end where the colours are really nice.

Back to camp for lunch before heading out to explore again, this time to Circular Pool, where we go for a swim in the warm water.

Then to Coalmine beach which was a bit ordinary, and then to Hilltop lookout which looks back over the inlets and small islands. The last thing we see is the Giant Tingle tree, which is big enough to drive a car underneath - amazing how nature works.

From here we will continue heading east to Albany and Esperance, before trekking across the Nullarbor to SA.

It was truly wonderful being able to go home and see family and some friends for Christmas, but also very special to spend time over New Years with friends over here in WA - it makes Australia seem that little bit smaller. And I know Di loved spending some time with Matthew and her mum.

More to come soon.

Di and Hammo