Saturday 19th October - left Dampier today, sayong goodbye to Gina, who we had been travelling and exploring with for a while. We planned to stop in at Onslow, but the info we found was that there was not too much to see, and it was a decent detour off the main highway, so we gave it a pass. Instead, we continued south, stopping at Nanutarra roadhouse by the river for lunch, before driving another 140km's to then turn-off the highway. After 22km's of really good dirt road, we arrive at Emu Creek homestead, which is a farm stay on a cattle property. The signs advertising home-made scones was a good reason to stop here too. After setting up camp along the river-side, we wandered back up to the homestead for freshly baked scones with home-made jam and fresh cream, and a pot of tea - and not just one scone each - we were laid out a basket of scones - was it rude to finish them all??? They were very scrumptious, and we chatted with the owners for quite a while before back to camp to start the pork roast.
I didn't count on the wood being so good, and the heat getting so high, but after the oil caught alight in the camp oven and blackened our meat and veges, I thought it best to reduce the heat a bit. Whilst it was a bit charcoaled, it was still edible.
Sunday - after packing up, we walked to the old woolshed which was built by the original owners of the property in 1912 - still as solid as the day it was built, and the timber they used is very solid, and would be worth a fortune. Back to the highway for the drive to Cape Range NP, stopping in at Exmouth for the info centre and for lunch at the bakery. Had scones with jam and cream again, but nowhere near as good - in fact, it was pretty damned ordinary compared to the previous day. Drove out the end of the peninsula, and then entered the National Park, stopping at the ranger station to be allocated our site. We were given site 5 at Pilgramunna, which turned out to be a great spot, and was a bit protected from the wind that was howling from the south. The camp hosts Jeff and Annette met us and took our money ($15 per night to camp right on the beach) and told us about the nightly "happy hour" at 5PM. After setting up, we took some drinks and join in the social get-together, meeting several of the other campers - only 9 sites, so quite a nice feel. Di took some photos of the sun setting over the ocean, freezing her arse off in the cold wind.
Monday - woke to another windy day, but not quite as bad as yesterday. Went for a walk along the beach this morning after breakfast,
then I went in for a snorkel while Di waiting on the shore.
The water was crystal clear, and the fish and coral were awesome, as it was only a few feet deep. After lunch, Di drew a picture while I went for another snorkel, and then we joined happy hour again for more of a chin-wag.
Tuesday - the wind has finally stopped, and the sun is out - another day in paradise. We decide to explore the area, firstly driving south to Yardie gorge for a walk along the cliff tops. From the top we could see some turtles, stingrays, and large fish swimming around in the water below.
From here we went north to the visitor centre to get some info about the better reef sites, and then back to camp where we both went in the water for a snorkel and chased fish.
The coral was quite colourful, and the fish was incredible in the types, sizes and colours. Another happy hour before dinner and an early night.
Wednesday - unfortunately, it was time to leave this great site, and we couldn't extend our time on site 5, so we packed the camper and headed to Turquoise Bay, where you can do a "drift snorkel", allowing the current to slowly push you along while you float over the coral reef - has to be the easiest way to go snorkelling. Saw some big parrotfish, 2 x octopus, lots of tiny brilliant blue fish, and some big chunks of coral "brains". After a rinse under the shower of the camper, we exited the NP and drove to Vlaming Head lighthouse near the end of the peninsula. From up high you could see whales breaching just out past the reef, and massive mantarays swimming in the shallows.
It also overlooked the very low frequency radio towers that were part of the Cold War USA / Aust alliance to ensure America had complete radio coverage in the Indian Ocean. The main tower was taller than the Eiffel Tower in Paris, and the towers were arranged in an array covering 1,000 hectares. From here back into Exmouth for lunch and a small food shopping trip, before booking in at the caravan park, where a local guy serviced the wheel bearings on the trailer in the late afternoon - it had been about 10,000km's since we had departed Burketown, so was time for some TLC.
Thursday - left town and stopped in at Charles Knife gorge which is 22km's south of town.
From the highway, it looks like just small hills, but once up on the range, there are some amazing gorges that open up, and are very steep - quite impressive to see with the Exmouth Gulf in the background. Drove south another 110km's before taking the turn-off to Coral Bay, where we are staying tonight. After setting up and a quick lunch, we went down to the beach to go for a snorkel. The only problem was that the coral was spawning, and the water was very cloudy, which impacted the visability, so we couldn't see too much. It was a very nice beach though. Had a walk down to the shops for a coffee and cake, and Di bought a sarong.
WA seems to have an abundance of amazing places to visit, with Cape Range NP being another to add to the list. When you list them all out so far, it is quite incredible that these are all in the one state - Bungles, Gibb River Road, Mitchell Falls, Cape Leveque, Cable Beach, Karajini NP, Carawine Gorge and now the Ningaloo Reef and Cape Range - what a place!!!!
From here we will continue our journey south mainly along the coast, but might detour inland if we find something interesting.
More to come soon.
Di and Hammo
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