WOW - what a week we have had this week. I did not think it was possible to ever go to a place that was SOOOOO good. You keep hearing about the amazing places in Australia that you can visit - the Bungle Bungles, Fraser Island, the Victorian High Country, Cape York, and the Flinders Ranges. Well up to last week, the best place I had ever been was Lawn Hill National Park in NW QLD, and when I was first there in my early 20's, it made such an impression that I went back in my late 20's, and until just recently, would the be most amazing place I had ever been to. But the places we went in the last week have relegated this to 2nd place. And not just "pipped at the post", but absolutely smashed them into a very distant 2nd. WOW, WOW and WOW.
Wednesday 9th October - after a brief look around Newman (say it again) from the lookout over town and the mine, we left town, with the first stop being Wonna Munna waterhole, which was unfortunately devoid of water, but had a lot of aboriginal art carvings in the rocks - just like paintings, but carved into the rocks - quite impressive. From here we drove into Karajini NP, and booked into Dales Gorge campground, where we were meeting Gina again. After setting up camp, we walked down to the gorge itself with the intention of cooling off with a swim. From the edge of the gorge, the view into Fortescue Falls is amazing,
and after the climb down the steep steps to the waters edge, we decide to continue on to Fern Pool to see what that is like first. Here we meet up with Gina again, lazily lounging on the wooden seats beside the pool reading a book in the mid-afternoon shade. A quick catch-up, before the slow descent into the water for a swim across to the waterfalls at the other side of the pool.
What a great spot this is, with some fallen trees just submerged in the water, and countless small fish willing to nibble at your legs if you stopped for too long. A sit underneath the water from the falls before returning to the jetty. Then back to Fortescue Falls, again for another swim before the afternoon sun starts to fade, and we make the climb back out of the gorge to camp for the evening. What a place - and this is just the first couple of spots in Karajini. Everyone we had met coming across the top of Australia had mentioned this NP, and some had said it was the best place they had been. At this stage, I was still not convinced - it was good, but it would have to get a lot better.
Thursday - up early for a walk along the top of Dales Gorge, with the plan to descend into the bottom for the hike to Circular Pool, and then walk along the bottom of the gorge back to Fortescue Falls. The walk along the rim is interesting, with some nice views down below.
The walk down into the gorge is very steep, with lots of tall steps, and a weaving and winding trail. Once at the bottom, we follow the markers along the gorge towards Circular Pool, passing many rock pools, and lots of angular, square-cut rocks that are a natural phenomenon for this area. Once we arrive at Circular Pool, this ups the ante again, with the backdrop of a cliff face, with a waterfall trickling from within the rocks, and the crystal clear water being awesome.
While the water was a bit crisp (starting to sound like a Qld'er) it was lovely just lazing around and taking in the magnificent views and quiet ambience of this place. But there was still another part of the walk to complete, so we left the pool, and continued back along the floor of the gorge,
and after a slight detour, finally found the right track and arrived back at Fortescue Falls for yet another swim, where we lazed for the afternoon.
Friday - time to move campsites, but the plan was to stop in at a couple of gorges along the way first. First stop was Kalamina Gorge,
where we walked for about 2km's over the rocks, moving from left to right side of the gorge, before we arrived at the rock arch in the wall. I had to take the challenge and climb up to the arch and get Di to take a photo.
On the walk back, we stopped at the first pool, and had a swim to cool off - it was in the early 40's so was plenty hot enough. Once back at the Triton, we continued our drive, stopping at Joffre Gorge where we had a quick lunch before a short walk to the lookout. From here we could see an incredible pool at the bottom, and the walk down didn't look too long, but would be steep.
Back to the car to get our stuff, and then clamber down the steps before arriving at the start of the climb down into the gorge. This was a "real" climb, and was way steeper than anything we had done before. Di got 75% of the way down, before it just got too steep, so she waited while I clambered to the bottom for a cooling swim, and then took the camera into the next gorge to get some photos of the waterfall.
These gorges were getting better and better as our time in the NP went on. From here we drove to Knox lookout for a quick look as we were exhausted, and another walk was not on the agenda. From here to the Eco Retreat to set-up camp and catch-up with Gina over a coffee and ice blocks.
Saturday - another gorge day, with the plan to complete both Weano and Hancock gorges today. First up was Weano, where we descended the steps, and then walked along the base between the rock walls, with the sides slowing closing in.
After some rock jumping and walking through the water flowing through the gorge, we arrive at a very narrow section,
which eventually dropped down into Handrail Pool, where you had to cling to the steel railing while climbing down some rock steps to the bottom of the gorge - absolutely amazing, and great for a swim.
From here, you swam across the pool, and followed the stream down some more rocks, through another narrow pool and at the end was the closed section where you needed rock climbing accreditations to be able to continue. What a spectacular adventure this was to get through to this point - would never happen back in NSW, as they would certainly deem it was too unsafe for tourists to complete by themselves, and the legal ramifications would be too risky. But in WA, they have signs telling you the risks, and once you decide to continue, you take on the risk - as it should be. What a fun place. Back to the carpark for a snack before walking the other way to Hancock Gorge. Another big climb down a steep track, then a short walk over rocks, before a swim through a narrow channel
into the Amphitheatre (you could walk over the rocks, but this looked a scarier option). Then through a very narrow section where you could either walk in the water, or "spider-walk" along the rock walls,
until arriving at Kermit's Pool at the end of the normal section - qualified climbers were allowed to go further. This pool was only 8 x 3 metres, but was quite deep, and great for a swim - and all created by millions of years of water rushing through the channel creating these natural obstacles.
Back to the car, and back to camp where we chatted to our neighbours about our day.
Sunday - 13th of October, and our 12th wedding anniversary, so we needed to celebrate. After packing, we drove back to Knox Gorge, and did the walk along the base to the end where it changed to Grade 6 and we couldn't go any further. We had criss-crossed the stream several times,
and carefully negotiated rock steps and hugging the cliff walls to not get wet. At the end of the gorge, we had a swim in the pool,
while we watched an adventure group descend into the Grade 6 area, all wearing wetsuits, harnesses, and carrying inner tubes for the paddle back up the next gorge - looked like lots of fun, and would like to have done it. We retraced our steps back along the gorge, stopping off at one of the larger pools for a refreshing swim again, before the climb back to the car - what a climb it was - very loose and steep under the hot sun. It was time to leave Karajini NP and head to Tom Price, a mining town in the Pilbara. The last 4 days of climbing in and out of gorges, and swimming in some amazing pools had been astounding, and convinced us both that this was far and away the best place we had ever been to - so put it on your bucket lists - it is well worth it. After a late lunch in town, we set-up at the caravan park, caught up with Gina again, and then went into the miners bistro for dinner - not the best meal we have ever had, but it was nice to go out for a meal.
Monday - did the morning mine tour, and saw a massive hole in the ground, and some enormous trucks.
From here we headed to Hamersley Gorge about 50km's out of town, and had another swim downstream for a couple of hundred metres.
Gina arrived to meet us, so we clambered across the rocks upstream to the grotto, and swam the short distance to the round hole in the rocks, where a natural pool had been created by nature.
We dropped into this pool, and relaxed while the water dropped over a set of falls at the far end - very relaxing, and ever a bit luxurious. It was getting a bit later than we thought, so back in the 4WD's for the drive towards Millstream Chichester NP, where we arrived just as dark was closing in - setting up in the dark is that much harder, but we did have a spot right on the edge of the river.
Tuesday - had a swim straight after breakfast, then went for a drive to the visitor centre, about 20km's away. This is in the old homestead built in the 1920's, and then we did a short walk around the grounds, seeing the creek diversion channels for the crops, and the stand of palms planted by the original owners. We then drove a bit further to a lookout, which had a nie view over the river, and then continued onto Deep Reach pool for another swim in a wider section of the river. Back to camp for a late lunch, and then a leisurely afternoon, with Di completing a painting before we went for another swim before dinner.
Wednesday - after packing, we went for another swim to cool off, before driving about 50km's to Python Pool, and had another swim
- can you tell it was damned hot, and most days were in the 40's??? On the drive towards the coast, we had to move off the road for a semi towing a massive water truck to a nearby mine - 300 tonnes and VERY wide.
From here we drove to Roebourne, stopping at the info centre for lunch and to find out what to see in the area. Best option was to continue to Dampier, and come back and explore the surrounding towns the next day. Booked into the caravan park right beside the ore loading facility, and watched as the boats moved in and out of the dock.
Thursday - spent the day exploring the area, driving out to Point Samson first, where there we some nice beaches and lookouts. Then to Wickham, and further on to Cape Lambert where the other massive ore loading facility was located. From here we went to Cossack, which was the original harbour for many years before new options were built to cater for larger ships, and finally into Karratha - the biggest town in the Pilbara which services the ship loading plants, as well as the North West Shelf LNG plants and offshore rigs. We also stopped in at the "red dog" statue for a picture.
Friday - after a relaxed breakfast, we did a tour of the North West Shelf LNG tourist centre, and learnt all about how the gas and oil is extracted from under the seabed, and then pipped ashore, before being refined for export to Asia. Then into Karratha for some shopping and buying bits and pieces, before returning to camp to chat with neighbours for the afternoon.
Tomorrow we will leave town and continue our journey south, stopping in at Onslow and then to Exmouth to do some snorkelling at Ningaloo Reef.
More to come soon.
Di and Hammo
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