Blog 23 - 19th to 24th October 2013

Saturday 19th October - left Dampier today, sayong goodbye to Gina, who we had been travelling and exploring with for a while. We planned to stop in at Onslow, but the info we found was that there was not too much to see, and it was a decent detour off the main highway, so we gave it a pass. Instead, we continued south, stopping at Nanutarra roadhouse by the river for lunch, before driving another 140km's to then turn-off the highway. After 22km's of really good dirt road, we arrive at Emu Creek homestead, which is a farm stay on a cattle property. The signs advertising home-made scones was a good reason to stop here too. After setting up camp along the river-side, we wandered back up to the homestead for freshly baked scones with home-made jam and fresh cream, and a pot of tea - and not just one scone each - we were laid out a basket of scones - was it rude to finish them all??? They were very scrumptious, and we chatted with the owners for quite a while before back to camp to start the pork roast.

I didn't count on the wood being so good, and the heat getting so high, but after the oil caught alight in the camp oven and blackened our meat and veges, I thought it best to reduce the heat a bit. Whilst it was a bit charcoaled, it was still edible.

Sunday - after packing up, we walked to the old woolshed which was built by the original owners of the property in 1912 - still as solid as the day it was built, and the timber they used is very solid, and would be worth a fortune. Back to the highway for the drive to Cape Range NP, stopping in at Exmouth for the info centre and for lunch at the bakery. Had scones with jam and cream again, but nowhere near as good - in fact, it was pretty damned ordinary compared to the previous day. Drove out the end of the peninsula, and then entered the National Park, stopping at the ranger station to be allocated our site. We were given site 5 at Pilgramunna, which turned out to be a great spot, and was a bit protected from the wind that was howling from the south. The camp hosts Jeff and Annette met us and took our money ($15 per night to camp right on the beach) and told us about the nightly "happy hour" at 5PM. After setting up, we took some drinks and join in the social get-together, meeting several of the other campers - only 9 sites, so quite a nice feel. Di took some photos of the sun setting over the ocean, freezing her arse off in the cold wind.

Monday - woke to another windy day, but not quite as bad as yesterday. Went for a walk along the beach this morning after breakfast,

then I went in for a snorkel while Di waiting on the shore.

The water was crystal clear, and the fish and coral were awesome, as it was only a few feet deep. After lunch, Di drew a picture while I went for another snorkel, and then we joined happy hour again for more of a chin-wag.

Tuesday - the wind has finally stopped, and the sun is out - another day in paradise. We decide to explore the area, firstly driving south to Yardie gorge for a walk along the cliff tops. From the top we could see some turtles, stingrays, and large fish swimming around in the water below.

From here we went north to the visitor centre to get some info about the better reef sites, and then back to camp where we both went in the water for a snorkel and chased fish.

The coral was quite colourful, and the fish was incredible in the types, sizes and colours. Another happy hour before dinner and an early night.

Wednesday - unfortunately, it was time to leave this great site, and we couldn't extend our time on site 5, so we packed the camper and headed to Turquoise Bay, where you can do a "drift snorkel", allowing the current to slowly push you along while you float over the coral reef - has to be the easiest way to go snorkelling. Saw some big parrotfish, 2 x octopus, lots of tiny brilliant blue fish, and some big chunks of coral "brains". After a rinse under the shower of the camper, we exited the NP and drove to Vlaming Head lighthouse near the end of the peninsula. From up high you could see whales breaching just out past the reef, and massive mantarays swimming in the shallows.

It also overlooked the very low frequency radio towers that were part of the Cold War USA / Aust alliance to ensure America had complete radio coverage in the Indian Ocean. The main tower was taller than the Eiffel Tower in Paris, and the towers were arranged in an array covering 1,000 hectares. From here back into Exmouth for lunch and a small food shopping trip, before booking in at the caravan park, where a local guy serviced the wheel bearings on the trailer in the late afternoon - it had been about 10,000km's since we had departed Burketown, so was time for some TLC.

Thursday - left town and stopped in at Charles Knife gorge which is 22km's south of town.

From the highway, it looks like just small hills, but once up on the range, there are some amazing gorges that open up, and are very steep - quite impressive to see with the Exmouth Gulf in the background. Drove south another 110km's before taking the turn-off to Coral Bay, where we are staying tonight. After setting up and a quick lunch, we went down to the beach to go for a snorkel. The only problem was that the coral was spawning, and the water was very cloudy, which impacted the visability, so we couldn't see too much. It was a very nice beach though. Had a walk down to the shops for a coffee and cake, and Di bought a sarong.

WA seems to have an abundance of amazing places to visit, with Cape Range NP being another to add to the list. When you list them all out so far, it is quite incredible that these are all in the one state - Bungles, Gibb River Road, Mitchell Falls, Cape Leveque, Cable Beach, Karajini NP, Carawine Gorge and now the Ningaloo Reef and Cape Range - what a place!!!!

From here we will continue our journey south mainly along the coast, but might detour inland if we find something interesting.

More to come soon.

Di and Hammo

Blog 22 - 9th to 18th October 2013

WOW - what a week we have had this week. I did not think it was possible to ever go to a place that was SOOOOO good. You keep hearing about the amazing places in Australia that you can visit - the Bungle Bungles, Fraser Island, the Victorian High Country, Cape York, and the Flinders Ranges. Well up to last week, the best place I had ever been was Lawn Hill National Park in NW QLD, and when I was first there in my early 20's, it made such an impression that I went back in my late 20's, and until just recently, would the be most amazing place I had ever been to. But the places we went in the last week have relegated this to 2nd place. And not just "pipped at the post", but absolutely smashed them into a very distant 2nd. WOW, WOW and WOW.

Wednesday 9th October - after a brief look around Newman (say it again) from the lookout over town and the mine, we left town, with the first stop being Wonna Munna waterhole, which was unfortunately devoid of water, but had a lot of aboriginal art carvings in the rocks - just like paintings, but carved into the rocks - quite impressive. From here we drove into Karajini NP, and booked into Dales Gorge campground, where we were meeting Gina again. After setting up camp, we walked down to the gorge itself with the intention of cooling off with a swim. From the edge of the gorge, the view into Fortescue Falls is amazing,

and after the climb down the steep steps to the waters edge, we decide to continue on to Fern Pool to see what that is like first. Here we meet up with Gina again, lazily lounging on the wooden seats beside the pool reading a book in the mid-afternoon shade. A quick catch-up, before the slow descent into the water for a swim across to the waterfalls at the other side of the pool.

What a great spot this is, with some fallen trees just submerged in the water, and countless small fish willing to nibble at your legs if you stopped for too long. A sit underneath the water from the falls before returning to the jetty. Then back to Fortescue Falls, again for another swim before the afternoon sun starts to fade, and we make the climb back out of the gorge to camp for the evening. What a place - and this is just the first couple of spots in Karajini. Everyone we had met coming across the top of Australia had mentioned this NP, and some had said it was the best place they had been. At this stage, I was still not convinced - it was good, but it would have to get a lot better.

Thursday - up early for a walk along the top of Dales Gorge, with the plan to descend into the bottom for the hike to Circular Pool, and then walk along the bottom of the gorge back to Fortescue Falls. The walk along the rim is interesting, with some nice views down below.

The walk down into the gorge is very steep, with lots of tall steps, and a weaving and winding trail. Once at the bottom, we follow the markers along the gorge towards Circular Pool, passing many rock pools, and lots of angular, square-cut rocks that are a natural phenomenon for this area. Once we arrive at Circular Pool, this ups the ante again, with the backdrop of a cliff face, with a waterfall trickling from within the rocks, and the crystal clear water being awesome.

While the water was a bit crisp (starting to sound like a Qld'er) it was lovely just lazing around and taking in the magnificent views and quiet ambience of this place. But there was still another part of the walk to complete, so we left the pool, and continued back along the floor of the gorge,

and after a slight detour, finally found the right track and arrived back at Fortescue Falls for yet another swim, where we lazed for the afternoon.

Friday - time to move campsites, but the plan was to stop in at a couple of gorges along the way first. First stop was Kalamina Gorge,

where we walked for about 2km's over the rocks, moving from left to right side of the gorge, before we arrived at the rock arch in the wall. I had to take the challenge and climb up to the arch and get Di to take a photo.

On the walk back, we stopped at the first pool, and had a swim to cool off - it was in the early 40's so was plenty hot enough. Once back at the Triton, we continued our drive, stopping at Joffre Gorge where we had a quick lunch before a short walk to the lookout. From here we could see an incredible pool at the bottom, and the walk down didn't look too long, but would be steep.

Back to the car to get our stuff, and then clamber down the steps before arriving at the start of the climb down into the gorge. This was a "real" climb, and was way steeper than anything we had done before. Di got 75% of the way down, before it just got too steep, so she waited while I clambered to the bottom for a cooling swim, and then took the camera into the next gorge to get some photos of the waterfall.

These gorges were getting better and better as our time in the NP went on. From here we drove to Knox lookout for a quick look as we were exhausted, and another walk was not on the agenda. From here to the Eco Retreat to set-up camp and catch-up with Gina over a coffee and ice blocks.

Saturday - another gorge day, with the plan to complete both Weano and Hancock gorges today. First up was Weano, where we descended the steps, and then walked along the base between the rock walls, with the sides slowing closing in.

After some rock jumping and walking through the water flowing through the gorge, we arrive at a very narrow section,

which eventually dropped down into Handrail Pool, where you had to cling to the steel railing while climbing down some rock steps to the bottom of the gorge - absolutely amazing, and great for a swim.

From here, you swam across the pool, and followed the stream down some more rocks, through another narrow pool and at the end was the closed section where you needed rock climbing accreditations to be able to continue. What a spectacular adventure this was to get through to this point - would never happen back in NSW, as they would certainly deem it was too unsafe for tourists to complete by themselves, and the legal ramifications would be too risky. But in WA, they have signs telling you the risks, and once you decide to continue, you take on the risk - as it should be. What a fun place. Back to the carpark for a snack before walking the other way to Hancock Gorge. Another big climb down a steep track, then a short walk over rocks, before a swim through a narrow channel

into the Amphitheatre (you could walk over the rocks, but this looked a scarier option). Then through a very narrow section where you could either walk in the water, or "spider-walk" along the rock walls,

until arriving at Kermit's Pool at the end of the normal section - qualified climbers were allowed to go further.  This pool was only 8 x 3 metres, but was quite deep, and great for a swim - and all created by millions of years of water rushing through the channel creating these natural obstacles.

Back to the car, and back to camp where we chatted to our neighbours about our day.

Sunday - 13th of October, and our 12th wedding anniversary, so we needed to celebrate. After packing, we drove back to Knox Gorge, and did the walk along the base to the end where it changed to Grade 6 and we couldn't go any further. We had criss-crossed the stream several times,

and carefully negotiated rock steps and hugging the cliff walls to not get wet. At the end of the gorge, we had a swim in the pool,

while we watched an adventure group descend into the Grade 6 area, all wearing wetsuits, harnesses, and carrying inner tubes for the paddle back up the next gorge - looked like lots of fun, and would like to have done it. We retraced our steps back along the gorge, stopping off at one of the larger pools for a refreshing swim again, before the climb back to the car - what a climb it was - very loose and steep under the hot sun. It was time to leave Karajini NP and head to Tom Price, a mining town in the Pilbara. The last 4 days of climbing in and out of gorges, and swimming in some amazing pools had been astounding, and convinced us both that this was far and away the best place we had ever been to - so put it on your bucket lists - it is well worth it. After a late lunch in town, we set-up at the caravan park, caught up with Gina again, and then went into the miners bistro for dinner - not the best meal we have ever had, but it was nice to go out for a meal.

Monday - did the morning mine tour, and saw a massive hole in the ground, and some enormous trucks.

From here we headed to Hamersley Gorge about 50km's out of town, and had another swim downstream for a couple of hundred metres.

Gina arrived to meet us, so we clambered across the rocks upstream to the grotto, and swam the short distance to the round hole in the rocks, where a natural pool had been created by nature.

We dropped into this pool, and relaxed while the water dropped over a set of falls at the far end - very relaxing, and ever a bit luxurious. It was getting a bit later than we thought, so back in the 4WD's for the drive towards Millstream Chichester NP, where we arrived just as dark was closing in - setting up in the dark is that much harder, but we did have a spot right on the edge of the river.

Tuesday - had a swim straight after breakfast, then went for a drive to the visitor centre, about 20km's away. This is in the old homestead built in the 1920's, and then we did a short walk around the grounds, seeing the creek diversion channels for the crops, and the stand of palms planted by the original owners. We then drove a bit further to a lookout, which had a nie view over the river, and then continued onto Deep Reach pool for another swim in a wider section of the river. Back to camp for a late lunch, and then a leisurely afternoon, with Di completing a painting before we went for another swim before dinner.

Wednesday - after packing, we went for another swim to cool off, before driving about 50km's to Python Pool, and had another swim

- can you tell it was damned hot, and most days were in the 40's??? On the drive towards the coast, we had to move off the road for a semi towing a massive water truck to a nearby mine - 300 tonnes and VERY wide.

 From here we drove to Roebourne, stopping at the info centre for lunch and to find out what to see in the area. Best option was to continue to Dampier, and come back and explore the surrounding towns the next day. Booked into the caravan park right beside the ore loading facility, and watched as the boats moved in and out of the dock.

Thursday - spent the day exploring the area, driving out to Point Samson first, where there we some nice beaches and lookouts. Then to Wickham, and further on to Cape Lambert where the other massive ore loading facility was located. From here we went to Cossack, which was the original harbour for many years before new options were built to cater for larger ships, and finally into Karratha - the biggest town in the Pilbara which services the ship loading plants, as well as the North West Shelf LNG plants and offshore rigs. We also stopped in at the "red dog" statue for a picture.

Friday - after a relaxed breakfast, we did a tour of the North West Shelf LNG tourist centre, and learnt all about how the gas and oil is extracted from under the seabed, and then pipped ashore, before being refined for export to Asia. Then into Karratha for some shopping and buying bits and pieces, before returning to camp to chat with neighbours for the afternoon.

Tomorrow we will leave town and continue our journey south, stopping in at Onslow and then to Exmouth to do some snorkelling at Ningaloo Reef.

More to come soon.

Di and Hammo

Blog 21 - 29th September to 8th October 2013

Sunday 29th September - left 80 Mile Beach after saying goodbye to Gina, who we would meet again in a few days for our outback adventure. The plan was to camp at the free camp DeGrey River,but a major accident between a Hilux and a road train (guess who won???) held up traffic for a bit, but we were still at camp just after lunch. A very nice spot right by the river in amongst the trees. We decided to do some washing using our washing tub and the river water. Had a sit in the shallows later in the afternoon, before cooking a roast for dinner.

Monday - another tourist day, with us driving 83 km's into Port Hedland. This is a major mining port, with lots of ships being filled with all the dirt from out of the ground, and heading off to either China or another Asian country. For a decent size town, there was really not that much to look at, with the port being the only thing to see. Went for a drive along the coast through town to Pretty Pool which was just an inlet from the ocean. A bit more shopping before Di took the wheel of the Triton for the drive back to camp.

Tuesday - left DeGrey and arrived at Des Streckfuss rest area by 10.30am where we had arranged to meet Gina for our trip into Marble Bar and beyond. Had a quick walk down to the waterhole and then back to the shelter to sit in the shade, watching the Zebra finches dart in and out of the roof cavity.

Di passed the time doing a painting of the boabs trees at sunset and then some cross-stitch, while I relaxed with some reading. Talked to our neighbours before Gina arrived just before dark.

Wednesday - made our way to Marble Bar, which is known as the hottest town in Australia, with the most consecutive days recorded over 100 degrees farenheit - over 150. Got some info in town, and then drove out to Comet Mine for a quick look around, and then back to the Flying Fox lookout, before a quick search for some jasper just out of town. From here we went to the actual Marble Bar, which is a rock outcrop where the red jasper (was originally thought to be marble, thus the name) is prominent in the rocks.

Had a swim in the waterhole,

and then back into town for a final refuel and some more info at the Shire offices. From here we would be driving about 675km's before the next fuel, and our range would be a bit over 700km's, so we would need to drive very efficiently and conserve diesel. After a long drive, we arrived at Carrawine Gorge beside the Oakover River where we camped on the pebbles.

 

Had another swim (2nd for the day), and Gina caught a catfish or 2.

Thursday - another early morning swim before leaving for Eel Pool or Running Waters.

This was a narrow channel of water that had very steep sides, and was almost coral-like, with large trees lining the banks and creating a shade cover from the sun - a very pretty setting. Had a swim at the head of the pool, and then lunch before another swim a bit further down the pool where you couldn't see the bottom. Collected some fire wood for our roast dinner, and listened to the resident bull roaring in the distance.

Friday - awoke to the bull making strange noises, packed early for the long drive to Ruddall River NP, via Telfer mine. Stopped in at the mine to ensure we were allowed to continue and advise them of our trip intentions (remember this is a long way from anywhere - look it up on Google), and then headed south into the NP, with our plan to camp at Desert Queen Baths. The track in was reasonable, with the last 12km's being very narrow, rough, and twisty. Lots of low-range required to get the camper through - the problem was this was chewing fuel, but we were still on track with our adventure. Arrived at camp late in the afternoon, and went for a swim in the pool before setting up camp.

Chatted to our neighbours about the area. After dinner we played a board game "Logo" into the late evening.

Saturday - had another early morning swim

- it was getting to over 30 degrees each day by about 8am, and today would see the mercury climb to 45 degrees on our trip out of the NP. After packing up, we retraced our tracks to the main road, and then continued south, detouring to Watrara waterhole for another swim (another 2 swim day).

Once back on the main road, the surface deteriorated so much that we were down to 15-20 km/h for the next 2 hours - we have voted this the worst road in Australia and that is saying something given where we have been. Finally got out to the Talawana Track by about 3.45pm, but still had another 50km's until we reached the nearest Aboriginal community where we could refill with diesel. There was not much left in the tanks when we arrived, but we had discussed contingency plans prior, and were in no danger. After a bit of discussion, we re-filled at $3.00 per litre (don't complain about Sydney prices!!!!), and drove another 20km's back the way we had come before the setting sun and exhaustion got the better of us so we set camp beside a windmill.

Sunday - NRL Grand Final day, so we had to make it to a town that had a TV to watch the Roosters. It was another 340km's, with 280 of that being dirt with some more tragic corrugations. We got into Newman (if you've seen Seinfeld, you will say it right) after stopping at the Opthalmia Dam for lunch, set camp, had a swim, showered for the first time in 8 days, a shave (me face, Di legs) and then went to the pub to watch the game. Lots of beer was drunk, lots of shouting was done, and lots of cheering the Chooks to a stirring win over the Manly cry-babies. Pizza and pool followed, before a short walk back to camp.

Monday - awoke a bit the worse for wear. Got the washing done early, then went to the info centre where we got a map to some of the local waterholes - more swimming again!!! Drove out into the bush again, climbing some rugged terrain, but the views were amazing, being over 700 metres up. Finally arrived at 3 Pools, where we had a quick lunch before climbing down to the pool for a swim in the cool water.

I slipped off a rock on the climb out and fell backwards landing on top of Di - lucky she is soft and cushy, and I didn't crush her. From here we continued driving to Kalgan Pool, but the water level is down so low that the rope swings were way up the back - would be awesome to be here when there is enough water.

Then back to town along the Kalgan Creek.

Tuesday - had a lazy day around Newman (say it!!!), with some cleaning duties, before deciding to spend most of the day in the air conditioned comfort of the shopping centre. Had a coffee, then some lunch, before doing another major re-stock of food and drinks as we are heading into Karajini NP tomorrow for maybe a week, with lots more swimming planned, and some walks around, along, and over the gorges. Really looking forward to this, as most people we have met who have come from the west rave about it, with some saying it is the best place to visit in Australia - will wait and see.

Still having a great time, and loving the adventure we are sharing.

Di and Hammo