Blog 18 - 23rd August to 1st September 2013

Friday 23rd August - another trailer problem to fix this morning, so up early, packed and down at the repair place right on 7.00am as planned. Mechanic didn't arrive until 8.00am, so already an hour behind, with our plans to be in the Bungle Bungles campsite by tonight. Left the camper to be fixed and went for coffee in town. All fixed by midday, so on the road for the drive from Kununurra to the Bungles via Doon Doon and Warnum. Once we left the tar, the road was bloody awful, with the 52km's to the visitor centre taking 2.5 hours. So didn't get to the campsite until 5.15pm just as it was getting dark. But we did get the sun setting on the mountain range, which was absolutely lovely to see. Got set-up and chatted to our neighbours before dinner.

Saturday - as we had breakfast, 2 x blue-winged kookaburra's arrived near my feet to have an argument

- they didn't seem at all perturbed that us humans were around. On the way to the southern carpark for the walks, we passed the airfield, so booked in our helicopter flight for 30 minutes over the Bungles - $335 each but WELL worth it - the photos were amazing, and the number of gorges within the ranges are incredible.

After the flight, we continued to the carpark to do our walks, with the first around some of the honeycomb domes,

and then along Piccaninny Creek to the lookout,

and then finally into Cathedral Gorge which is absolutely HUGE - it is astounding how water can carve out such a massive area underneath the surrounding rock surfaces.

Back to camp as it was getting very hot - the 4 days we were in the Bungles would each hit 40 degrees. Spent some time collecting some wood from the rangers buggy in preparation for our roast tonight - mmmm lamb!!!

Sunday - today we move camp from the southern area of the park to the northern end, only a drive of about 18km's but worth a change anyway. Stopped in at the visitor centre and checked-in (we arrived too late 2 days ago and they were closed) and Di bought some postcards to send home. After setting up camp, we relaxed around the camper until 11.30am when we headed for the Echidna Chasm walk, which is so narrow, that it is only a very small window when the sunlight actually shines down into the chasm. After walking along the rocky creek-bed, we arrive at the entrance to the chasm, and it progresses to get narrower the further in we go, until it is not much more than shoulder width apart, with the walls reaching 300 metres into the air - just mind-blowing how nature can create such crazy things.

At several points, there were rocks wedged overhead that had fallen into the chasm and were being held in place by the rock walls. Back to camp after a short walk to another lookout, and spend the afternoon in the shade while Di did a painting of the Bungles.

Monday - another early morning to try to beat the heat, with a walk into Mini Palm Gorge.

Another walk along a rocky creek-bed, before we start to rock-hop around, over and through some of the massive boulders that have fallen from the cliffs above. After climbing a couple of ladders and sets of steps, we arrive at a viewing platform that looks down into the floor of the gorge which has several small trees set in a large opening, but again with cliff walls that rise over 300 metres from the bottom. The view back down this valley / chasm is also breath-taking. Back to camp, and we decide to set-up the shower as it has been a couple of days without a rinse. It was so nice to finally be cool - we didn't bother making the water hot. Just before sunset, we walked up to the lookout behind the campsite to see the sun setting on the Bungles range and took lots of pictures - they don't quite come close to the real thing.

Tuesday - left camp and tackled the track back to the highway - 2.5 hours to cover 52km's - lots of corrugations, ups and downs, and heaps of rocks to dodge. Turned south towards Halls Creek where we set-up in the caravan park. Had lunch in town, and sat by the pool in the afternoon.

Wednesday - we asked our neighbours if they would like to join us in a drive down to Wolfe Creek meteorite crater (their car had done an alternator), so we drove the 10km's out of town until the start of the Tanami Track, and then another 140km's along this until we arrived at the crater.

A quick walk up to the rim, and the view was astounding - 850 metres across, and about 50 metres down, with a bare patch in the centre surrounded by a neat circle of trees - all caused by the heat / impact / etc of when the 50,000 tonne chunk of rock collided with the ground at a speed of 15km/second about 300,000 years ago. Back to town, with some shopping, and back to the coolness of the pool again.

Thursday - time to say goodbye to Carolyn and Graham who came with us yesterday, and head east towards the NT border so we could eventually go around the back of the Bungles and Lake Argyle to arrive in Kununurra again. First stop was China Walls (white sandstone blocks piled on each other in the middle of nowhere), then to Caroline Pool (which had some water but was not flowing), and then to Palm Springs (which had flowing water, so we went for a swim - the water from the springs was warm but really only a trickle - nice to cool off anyway).

Next stop was Sawpit Gorge (another pool but not flowing - surrounded on 1 side by steep cliff walls, and lots of bulldust), and finally continued to Marella Gorge which took a bit of finding as it was not sign-posted.

Camped right along the trickle that was the river and spent some time exploring the river bed area. Had a magic night out under the stars on our own in the middle of the bush.

Friday - packed early and back onto Duncan Road, which turned north and criss-crossed the WA/NT border before arriving back on the Victoria highway 300km's later. Generally a very good dirt road, but some patches were very rough and slow. Had lunch at the entry to Keep River NP, and through the quarantine station again after handing over our fruit and veges. Drove onto Kununurra again, but this time chose a different caravan park to stay at down on the river - even got a grassy site.

Saturday - we were planning to leave to start the Gibb River Rd today, but this bloody election and voting was causing us some dramas. After lots of investigations, we decided it would be best to stay until Monday and cast our vote then before starting our trip into the Kimberleys. And it was the Kununurra Cup race meeting today too, so when in Rome.....

We got as dressed up as we could and headed out to the race track, which has a really nice back-drop of some rocky mountains that changed colour as the afternoon progressed. This was the big race day of the year, with lots of the girls busting out the best frocks and hats, and many of the guys wearing their best shorts and thongs. Lots of fun, and the bar did a roaring trade. Back to town, then a short walk to the pub for dinner, where most of the locals from the races decided to go too.

Sunday - today we are off to explore the town of Wyndham, which is the top town in WA - the most northern township. Along the way we stop at The Grotto, a natural swimming hole surrounded on 3 sides by rock walls and said to be 170 metres deep.

The water looked inviting, but again it was not running, so we opted to continue on with the hope of a swim later in the day. Did a quick drive around the town of Wyndham, and then drove to the top of the 5 Rivers lookout which had some amazing views across the town, the tidal flats, and along the river to the north and out to sea.

Lunch at the cafe in town, where we got some info about a swimming hole called Mollys Spring, which is only 30km's out of Kununurra and is a favourite of the locals. Finally found the right track, and drove to the carpark. A short walk later, we arrive at the astounding waterhole, again surrounded by cliff walls.

After a couple of swims, we walked back to the car for the drive back to town. A bit of shopping for dinner and back to the camper to battle the bugs who congregate around the lights and fly into everything you are trying to do.

Tomorrow we will vote, do some last minute shopping for fresh fruit and veges, and then start our trip across the Gibb River Road - we have heard lots of stories about the state of the road, but also some great tips about where to stay and some swimming spots - really looking forward to the next few weeks. But as we will be in this remote area, we will probably not have internet access, so it might be a couple of weeks before our next post - Di will keep the diary going, and we should have lots of pictures for next time.

Di and Hammo

Blog 17 - 17th to 22nd August 2013

Saturday 17th August - we left Timber Creek and our grassy campsite, stopping just out of town at the lookout back along the ranges.

We then continued west towards the WA border, where we started seeing lots of "BOB" trees (boab).

The intention was to divert to Keep River National Park just 3km's from the NT/WA border. Along a fairly corrugated road for 33km's into the campsite at Jarnem.

Again, another very hot day, and it was too hot to do anything other than change the tyre that got a small hole in it as we drove into camp. Back to a dirt campground again - we had been spoilt the last night.

Sunday - woke up early to go for a walk, but after we had breakfast and tidied up, we didn't start off until 7.30am. Chose to do the Nigli walk which was 5.2km's along the edge of the mountain range and along the rock gorges. Very similar to what the Bungles looks like, but a lot smaller.

Made it to the end, and then turned back towards camp, this time facing into the sun - by the time we had got back at 10am it was already 32 degrees and sure to get hotter. Packed the camper up, and decided to make our way back to the other campsite - Garrandalng - to do another walk before it got too hot. While this was only 2km's in a loop, the views were amazing, with the scenery changing every few hundred metres.

Just spectacular. Back to the Triton, and we crossed the border into WA, after handing over all of our fruit and veges at the quarantine station.

Another 9km's up the road, and we turn left towards Lake Argyle, which is 35km's into the ranges.

A great caravan park, again with lovely grass, some shade, and the best pool you could imagine - an infiniti pool overlooking the lake with the mountains in the background - absolutely lovely.

Had dinner at the resort - roast night - and a couple of drinks before the entertainers come on later.

Monday - another early morning as the sun rises at about 5.30am. After breakfast, we drive down to the Durack homestead,

which has been relocated piece-by-piece from where it once stood in the centre of the lake - rather than simply flood it when the lake was created, they decided to move it and preserve the history. Had a chat to the caretakers and got some great photos of the birds who came in for some water and food under the trees.

From here we went to the dam wall and lookout, and then down the road below the dam to have a look at the picnic area. Back to the park for another swim and lunch, before joining the bus for the sunset cruise on the lake. The lake is 15 times the size of Sydney Harbour, and at some points you cannot see land around the entire 360 degrees. There is supposed to be up to 30,000 freshwater crocs in the lake - we only saw a couple.

The water temp was very warm - about 26 degrees - and we went for a swim at about 3.30pm and then again after the sun had set, with the captain letting us jump off the roof of the boat into the water - lots of fun.

The view over the mountains from the water when the sun was going down was majestic. Then there was some nibblies and a few drinks before making our way back to shore for the short trip back to the park.

Very highly recommended, and if ever you are in this part of WA, make sure you visit this area and take the sunset cruise.

Tuesday - left the lake after an early morning swim in the pool, and drove to Kununurra for a major re-stock of supplies. Stopped at the info centre, getting brochures etc for the Bungles and the helicopter flights, as well as our parks pass for 12 months. The last 5 months had taken their toll on the springs under the camper, so I decided to replace them to give us a bit more lift and clearance. Found some that looked like they would do the job, and then went shopping - a big shop it was, with the bill nearly $400 without alcohol!!!! Too hot in the afternoon to fit the springs, so sat in the shade until the sun set.

Wednesday - up early to try to beat the heat and get the springs fitted. After a couple of hours, job all done, and it was time to explore the town. First up was the Artopia gallery to see some local artists work, and also the 16 x 2 metre Bungles artwork that spanned an entire wall - inspiring piece. Then across the diversion dam, a quick stop at swim beach, and then the Kellys Knob lookout for a view over the town. An early dinner, and then back to the gallery for a light and sound show, with the backdrop being the massive Bungles painting - went thru all seasons, showing the impact of fire, rain, floods, and the dry simply by changing the lights accompanied by sounds of the area - very impressive. Spent some time chatting to the gallery owner, and then back to camp.

Thursday - up early and packed ready to head to the Bungles. After a quick fuel refill, I poked my head under the trailer for a quick look to make sure all OK - it wasn't!!!! The springs had sagged even more than the old ones, and were now resting on the chassis - no departure for us today. The guy at the trailer spares place booked us in for tomorrow morning at 7.00am to fix it all up. I spent the day trying to work out how best to fix it and also trying to re-shuffle our gear so that the trailer was a bit lighter. The fuel tank that I fitted under the trailer has been junked to save some weight - will see if that makes a difference.

More updates to come soon - hopefully no more dramas - this trailer is creating some issues for us. But once all fixed, we have 4 nights booked at the Bungle Bungle ranges, and will then head to Halls Creek, a quick trip down to Wolfe Creek meteorite crater, and then back north to Kununurra along Duncan Road.

Stay tuned

Di and Hammo

Blog 16 - 7th to 16th August 2013

Wednesday 7th August - another day in Burketown, with not much to do but wait for our parts to arrive on the road train from Townsville. Had dinner with our new friends from the caravan park - Charlie and Wendy, and Neil, Kristie, Kaydee and Bailey - the fish we had caught the day before was more than enough to feed all 8 of us with some left over.

Thursday - another day in Burketown, with not much going on, but at least the parts had been loaded on the truck and were on their way.

Friday - went for a walk early around town, and then waited for the truck to arrive. In the meantime, we dragged the camper from the holding yard across to the mechanics and they started to dismantle the old axle and springs, and then once the truck arrived, it was all systems go to get all the new bits fitted, connect the brakes and we were on our way around to the caravan park for our final night in Burketown. Spent the evening with our new friends Charlie and Wendy chatting the night away, solving all the world's problems.

Saturday - time to continue our trip. Drove west to Doomadgee, arriving at the supermarket just in time before closing to stock up on a few things we were running low on. Then continued west, arriving at Hells Gate roadhouse mid-afternoon to set-up camp. This was the last stop before crossing into the NT tomorrow. We had spent 17 weeks travelling around QLD, with 3 weeks spent waiting for repairs to be done to the trailer. An amazing place to explore, and we still missed lots of things.

Sunday - crossed over into NT mid-morning,

and then continued along the Savannah Way, crossing the Foelsche River where we had lunch with a lovely couple from SA with a cute puppy. Stopped in at Boorooloola for a re-fuel, and then north towards the coast to spend the night at King Ash Bay fishing club campsite.

Met some lovely oldies who come here every year for several months to go fishing and escape the winter down south. They even gave us some fresh fish they had caught that day - very nice, and would be dinner the next night. Went up to the bistro and bar for dinner - $16 for a roast chicken and vegies (big meal). Bought some tickets in the raffle and won ourselves $20.

Monday - left early, back through Boorooloola and then towards Cape Crawford. On the way, we passed a sign for the Caranbirini Conservation Reserve, so decided to stop in and have a look. What an awesome place this turned out to be - very much like the Bungle Bungles in WA, and also a bit like the Lost City near Lithgow but heaps bigger and more spectacular.

Spent about 2 hours doing the 2km walk, and taking lots of photos. Back in the Triton and heading west, we finally arrive at Cape Crawford and book in at the Heartbreak Hotel caravan park for the night. After a swim in the pool (damn cold), and then dinner, we make our way across to the bar for the entertainer - he was very good and a real character.

Tuesday - due to the time we had lost in Burketown with the trailer, we had decided to race west across the NT, and postpone the top end (Kakadu, Darwin and Litchfield) until we return next year. So we continued westward, seeing lots of the same scenery between last nights camp at Cape Crawford and tonights spot at Daly Waters.

Camped in behind the pub, booked our dinner of barra and beef, and had a quick walk around town before happy hour started. The entertainment started at about 5.30 and continued through the night until a bit after 9.00, with 2 guys singing, telling stories, and some bush poetry - a great night, and the food was yummy.

Wednesday - after a quick chat to Amy and James, and making sure they were all good with the dramas they were having, we decided the dirt road across the Buchanan highway was a better option than the tar via Katherine. A bit south, before turning west again for 182km's of good dirt road, arriving in Top Springs for a late lunch. The caravan park looked a bit feral, so we continued our trip, which was another 220km's to the Victoria highway near Timber Creek. We knew we wouldn't make it that far, as the road was nowhere near as good as the mornings and it was a lot slower going. We finally arrived at Jasper Gorge about 4.30pm and set-up camp in a free spot by a waterhole.

Thursday - on leaving our campsite, we were stunned at the beauty of Jasper Gorge, and this continued for about 20km's with cliff walls both sides of us, and stunning landscapes, with vibrant colours contrasting with the dirt and dust.

At a junction in the track, we could turn left and travel 21km's along a 4WD track that would take 3 hours, or continue up to the highway, along for 14km's and then back down for 35km's to end up at the same spot - we chose the longer route, but it would be quicker. This took us into Gregory National Park, and we camped near the Bullita homestead,

which was an old cattle property. Damned hot and lots of flies - and there was this sign along the river bank.

Sick of seeing these signs, and now they are all over the NT as well - maybe WA would be better for swimming.

Friday - packed early and drove to Limestone Gorge to go for a walk. The lookout was only 600 metres away, with great views over the valley with the gorge at the end.

Then we did the walk into the gorge, which was very rocky - and the sun was beating down on us. Back to the car, and we drove back out to the Victoria highway, turning left and arriving in Timber Creek after 10km's. Booked into the caravan park in town, and for the first time in weeks, we were finally able to walk around on grass instead of dirt and dust - what a thrill. Had a nice relaxing swim in the pool after doing the washing. Someone said that Timber Creek is the hottest place in the NT due to the surrounding rocky escarpments that trap the heat like an oven - was certainly like that today.

Tomorrow we are heading for Keep River NP to do a few walks, and then across into WA where we will visit Lake Argyle and do the sunset boat tour. Then to Kunnanurra for a re-stock of the pantry and supplies.

More to come soon

Di and Hammo