Sunday 1 September 2013

Blog 18 - 23rd August to 1st September 2013

Friday 23rd August - another trailer problem to fix this morning, so up early, packed and down at the repair place right on 7.00am as planned. Mechanic didn't arrive until 8.00am, so already an hour behind, with our plans to be in the Bungle Bungles campsite by tonight. Left the camper to be fixed and went for coffee in town. All fixed by midday, so on the road for the drive from Kununurra to the Bungles via Doon Doon and Warnum. Once we left the tar, the road was bloody awful, with the 52km's to the visitor centre taking 2.5 hours. So didn't get to the campsite until 5.15pm just as it was getting dark. But we did get the sun setting on the mountain range, which was absolutely lovely to see. Got set-up and chatted to our neighbours before dinner.

Saturday - as we had breakfast, 2 x blue-winged kookaburra's arrived near my feet to have an argument
- they didn't seem at all perturbed that us humans were around. On the way to the southern carpark for the walks, we passed the airfield, so booked in our helicopter flight for 30 minutes over the Bungles - $335 each but WELL worth it - the photos were amazing, and the number of gorges within the ranges are incredible.







After the flight, we continued to the carpark to do our walks, with the first around some of the honeycomb domes,

and then along Piccaninny Creek to the lookout,


and then finally into Cathedral Gorge which is absolutely HUGE - it is astounding how water can carve out such a massive area underneath the surrounding rock surfaces.


Back to camp as it was getting very hot - the 4 days we were in the Bungles would each hit 40 degrees. Spent some time collecting some wood from the rangers buggy in preparation for our roast tonight - mmmm lamb!!!

Sunday - today we move camp from the southern area of the park to the northern end, only a drive of about 18km's but worth a change anyway. Stopped in at the visitor centre and checked-in (we arrived too late 2 days ago and they were closed) and Di bought some postcards to send home. After setting up camp, we relaxed around the camper until 11.30am when we headed for the Echidna Chasm walk, which is so narrow, that it is only a very small window when the sunlight actually shines down into the chasm. After walking along the rocky creek-bed, we arrive at the entrance to the chasm, and it progresses to get narrower the further in we go, until it is not much more than shoulder width apart, with the walls reaching 300 metres into the air - just mind-blowing how nature can create such crazy things.



At several points, there were rocks wedged overhead that had fallen into the chasm and were being held in place by the rock walls. Back to camp after a short walk to another lookout, and spend the afternoon in the shade while Di did a painting of the Bungles.

Monday - another early morning to try to beat the heat, with a walk into Mini Palm Gorge.



Another walk along a rocky creek-bed, before we start to rock-hop around, over and through some of the massive boulders that have fallen from the cliffs above. After climbing a couple of ladders and sets of steps, we arrive at a viewing platform that looks down into the floor of the gorge which has several small trees set in a large opening, but again with cliff walls that rise over 300 metres from the bottom. The view back down this valley / chasm is also breath-taking. Back to camp, and we decide to set-up the shower as it has been a couple of days without a rinse. It was so nice to finally be cool - we didn't bother making the water hot. Just before sunset, we walked up to the lookout behind the campsite to see the sun setting on the Bungles range and took lots of pictures - they don't quite come close to the real thing.

Tuesday - left camp and tackled the track back to the highway - 2.5 hours to cover 52km's - lots of corrugations, ups and downs, and heaps of rocks to dodge. Turned south towards Halls Creek where we set-up in the caravan park. Had lunch in town, and sat by the pool in the afternoon.

Wednesday - we asked our neighbours if they would like to join us in a drive down to Wolfe Creek meteorite crater (their car had done an alternator), so we drove the 10km's out of town until the start of the Tanami Track, and then another 140km's along this until we arrived at the crater.

A quick walk up to the rim, and the view was astounding - 850 metres across, and about 50 metres down, with a bare patch in the centre surrounded by a neat circle of trees - all caused by the heat / impact / etc of when the 50,000 tonne chunk of rock collided with the ground at a speed of 15km/second about 300,000 years ago. Back to town, with some shopping, and back to the coolness of the pool again.

Thursday - time to say goodbye to Carolyn and Graham who came with us yesterday, and head east towards the NT border so we could eventually go around the back of the Bungles and Lake Argyle to arrive in Kununurra again. First stop was China Walls (white sandstone blocks piled on each other in the middle of nowhere), then to Caroline Pool (which had some water but was not flowing), and then to Palm Springs (which had flowing water, so we went for a swim - the water from the springs was warm but really only a trickle - nice to cool off anyway).

Next stop was Sawpit Gorge (another pool but not flowing - surrounded on 1 side by steep cliff walls, and lots of bulldust), and finally continued to Marella Gorge which took a bit of finding as it was not sign-posted.

Camped right along the trickle that was the river and spent some time exploring the river bed area. Had a magic night out under the stars on our own in the middle of the bush.

Friday - packed early and back onto Duncan Road, which turned north and criss-crossed the WA/NT border before arriving back on the Victoria highway 300km's later. Generally a very good dirt road, but some patches were very rough and slow. Had lunch at the entry to Keep River NP, and through the quarantine station again after handing over our fruit and veges. Drove onto Kununurra again, but this time chose a different caravan park to stay at down on the river - even got a grassy site.

Saturday - we were planning to leave to start the Gibb River Rd today, but this bloody election and voting was causing us some dramas. After lots of investigations, we decided it would be best to stay until Monday and cast our vote then before starting our trip into the Kimberleys. And it was the Kununurra Cup race meeting today too, so when in Rome.....

We got as dressed up as we could and headed out to the race track, which has a really nice back-drop of some rocky mountains that changed colour as the afternoon progressed. This was the big race day of the year, with lots of the girls busting out the best frocks and hats, and many of the guys wearing their best shorts and thongs. Lots of fun, and the bar did a roaring trade. Back to town, then a short walk to the pub for dinner, where most of the locals from the races decided to go too.

Sunday - today we are off to explore the town of Wyndham, which is the top town in WA - the most northern township. Along the way we stop at The Grotto, a natural swimming hole surrounded on 3 sides by rock walls and said to be 170 metres deep.

The water looked inviting, but again it was not running, so we opted to continue on with the hope of a swim later in the day. Did a quick drive around the town of Wyndham, and then drove to the top of the 5 Rivers lookout which had some amazing views across the town, the tidal flats, and along the river to the north and out to sea.

Lunch at the cafe in town, where we got some info about a swimming hole called Mollys Spring, which is only 30km's out of Kununurra and is a favourite of the locals. Finally found the right track, and drove to the carpark. A short walk later, we arrive at the astounding waterhole, again surrounded by cliff walls.


After a couple of swims, we walked back to the car for the drive back to town. A bit of shopping for dinner and back to the camper to battle the bugs who congregate around the lights and fly into everything you are trying to do.

Tomorrow we will vote, do some last minute shopping for fresh fruit and veges, and then start our trip across the Gibb River Road - we have heard lots of stories about the state of the road, but also some great tips about where to stay and some swimming spots - really looking forward to the next few weeks. But as we will be in this remote area, we will probably not have internet access, so it might be a couple of weeks before our next post - Di will keep the diary going, and we should have lots of pictures for next time.

Di and Hammo

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