Wednesday, 21 May 2014

Blog 40 - 5th May to 22nd May 2014

Monday 5th May - time to pack and for us and the Cumming's family to leave Coober Pedy and continue our adventure, this time heading north to Cadney Park before turning east to the Painted Desert. On the way out of town, we notice that the road to The Breakaways, a rock formation with lots of colour, is open, so we detour along this track. Whilst the road is now open after the recent rains, the going is decidely slippery, and the 4WD lever is engaged to try to keep us in a straight line. We take some nice photos from each of the 2 lookouts,
and then make our way back to the Stuart highway and spend 20 minutes scraping the mud out from under the wheel arches and off the trailers. We check road conditions at Cadney Park, and the local guy says he was out the yesterday and that the road is quite bad and not advisable. We decide to have a look anyway, thinking we can always turn around and come back if it gets too bad. But in the 24 hours since, it has dried out heaps, and there is only one bad section that requires low range and some herbs. We get into Arkaringa station late in the afternoon and pitch camp, then build a fire for the evening and cook a roast.

Tuesday 6th - we leave the station and make our way the 11km's to the Painted desert - an amzing piece of scenery where nearly all colours of the rainbow are present in the landscape and surrounding hills - very spectacular. We do a walk to the top of the ranges and take lots of photos.



There is also lots of greenery around due to the recent rains, and it is very unlike a desert. From here we continue into Oodnadatta, before heading to Hamilton station, and then the very rough and bumpy drive into Dalhousie Springs - 3 hours for 68km's. Along the way we stop at the Dalhousie ruins and have a wander around the old buildings still standing out in the middle of nowhere.
Then a short drive into the springs, and as soon as we are parked, we grab the swimmers, and wander off to the waterhole for a dip. Very relaxing in the 32 degree water, but after a while it justs gets too hot.
After dinner we all sit around and play a board game late into the night.

Wednesday 7th - another swim before breakfast, and then pack-up for our journey to Mt Dare, along another truly horrible track, with lots of gibber stones and ruts. The last few km's into the homestead were flooded, and we walked some crossings just to be sure. After lunch, we continued into NT
and then to Finke for a refuel (not really much else in town and a bit scary) and then headed east to Lamberts, which is the geographical centre of Australia, a bumpy 12km track off the main road. Right at the centre point is a monument similar to that on top of parliament house,
and a plaque to Mr Lambert, who was the chief mapping expert in Australia. We all sat around the fire, and Di made damper for breakfast.

Thursday 8th - we all shared the damper for breakfast, packed and then drove out to the Stuart highway to Kulgera to air up for the black top drive into Ayres Rock and Yulara.Along the way, we spied Mt Connor in the distance,
all of us thinking it was the rock, but up closer it is quite different, but very nice regardless. We book into the camping ground at Yulara for 4 nights (pay 3, stay 4 deal) and head to the lookout for sunset over the rock.

Friday 9th - Di wakes early to get to the lookout for sunrise. After breakfast, we drive out to the rock, paying our $25 pp park entry fee. After having seen the rock in pictures many, many times, it is surprising how different it is from up close. We decide to do the walk around the base - 11.5 km - and set out for what is a long and tiring walk - but well worth it too.



We drop into the cultural centre, and then drive around for another look before back to camp for a lazy afternoon.

Saturday 10th - Di wakes early for another sunrise, and we wait around to see if the rock climb is open - but due to slight winds, it is closed again today. So we do some shopping before heading to the Olgas for the Valley of the Winds walk. On the way out we stop in at the dune lookout for an impressive view over the entire range.
Then into the carpark, and with backpacks on, we head off. A 7.4km walk along rocky tracks, but the view from the 2nd lookout is worth every step - absolutely amazing.



Around the back of the mountain, then back to the carpark, and then back to camp, stopping along the way for some more photos of the rock.

Sunday 11th - another windy day, so the climb is still closed - looks like we won't be able to climb to the top of the rock - bugger, it is something I really wanted to do while here - maybe next time. So we head out to the Olgas again, and do the Walpa Gorge walk which is only 2.6km's. Back to town, where we stop in at the shops, and wander through the gallery. Then back to camp for a bbq, and some fierce games of Uno.

Monday 12th - we leave Ayres Rock, after checking Trev's wheel bearings, and drive to Kings Canyon, detouring along the way to get some more photos of Mt Connor. We book into the resort (unpowered site), and after setting up camp, wander up to the lookout to see the sun go down over the mountains. After dinner we wander up to the bar / eatery to see Rod Dowsett play some tunes (we had seen him last year at Cape Crawford) - we have a chat after his set is over.

Tuesday 13th - up early and we set off to do the Kings Canyon rim walk, starting with 500 steps up the canyon wall to get to the top. Magic views, and a great walk along the top of the escarpment. Over the ridge, we drop down into the Garden of Eden, and sit by the pool for some time to take it all in - a very special place. Then back up the stairs, and along the other side of the canyon, before the gradual walk back to the car.





A truly inspiring place, and well worth the hard climb to get there. After dinner and some games of Scattergories, we head back to the bar to see Rod play again.

Wednesday 14th - we pack early and quickly dart out to do the walk to Kathleen Springs,
before getting back to camp to hook up the trailer and head off along the Mereenie Loop. We stop in at Albert Namitjera's house where we have lunch in the carpark, before driving along the track into Palm Valley in the Finke NP, where we camp. Not a bad road into the valley, and the views of the mountains are lovely. Di take some more sunset photos of the creek in front of the campsite.

Thursday 15th - after breakfast, we all set out to do the loop walk around the valley. We drive the 6km's to the parking area, and then set out on foot, climbing the escarpment first. We get to the far reach of the walk, and the views over the valley are astounding, so we sit on a rock for a while just to take it all in. From here we climb down into the valley and follow the creek back to the carpark, stopping along the way at several waterholes, and to look at the palm trees.



Back to camp for lunch, and then a lazy afternoon relaxing, with Di and Olivia doing some drawings - they also saw a mulga snake not far from camp.

Friday 16th - we do another walk this morning, this time around the nearby mountian range. A bit rougher walk, with lots of climbing, and rock-hopping, and much of it at a side angle too. But the views again are breath-taking, and worth the exertion.

A bit more of a walk around some rock outcrops before back to camp again for lunch and some more relaxing. This evening after dinner, the ranger comes by for a talk around the fire, which is very interesting - lots of questions about snakes, dingos and the palm trees.

Saturday 17th - we leave the valley and make our way to Hermansburg for some supplies. Then we back-track to join the next road that goes past Gosse Bluff, where we stop for another walk around the interior rim of the meteorite crater, before climbing a lookout which gives a great view of the size of the hole in the ground. After lunch, we drive north, stopping at Tylers Pass lookout for views back to the Bluff,
and then turn east to Ormiston Gorge in the West Macdonnell Ranges where we set-up camp. We do another walk to the Ghost Gum lookout into the gorge,
before wandering down to the waterhole for a quick look before dinner. And another magnificent sunset.

Sunday 18th - another day, another walk to complete - this time the 7km loop walk around the pound, and back through the gorge. We had been told that the last part of the walk was still flooded, and we would need to cross the creek, which was about chest height, so we took appropriate gear anticipating that we would get well and truly wet. After all the walking we had been doing, it was taking its toll, and we were all getting weary, but the creek crossing woke us up - it was so bloody cold in the water. We rock-hopped back along the gorge, before climbing down the small cliff-face to the watewrhole, and another swim just to cool off - still bloody cold, but worth it anyway. A relaxed afternoon, before a butterfly marinated lamb on the free bbq's for dinner.

Monday 19th - we decided to go for a drive to some of the surrounding areas, and took Sam and Olivia with us, giving Trev and Bec some private time to themselves. We drove back towards Redbank Gorge and went walking yet again, this time along the creek bed to where the gorge is only a few metres wide. But the water was icy, so we didn't explore any further, but the kids did climb the walls of the gorge, way higher than their parents would have let them.
We were planning to drive into Roma Gorge, but the 8.5km's was said to take 1 hour each way, so we opted not to do it, and instead drove Mount Sonder lookout (also called the Sleeping Lubra) and then to Glen Helen gorge, where we walked to the waterhole, before Sam and I climbed up to a cave in the rocks (cause we can).
Lunch in the carpark, before heading back to camp, where the kids went swimming, and we relaxed, vowing not to do any more walking.

Tuesday 20th - we leave Ormiston Gorge and head for Alice Springs, stopping along the way at Ellery Creek Big Hole, which is stunning with the sun shining off the cliff walls.
But the water was colder than before, so no swimming - looked very enticing, but the feet started to ache after a minute or so. We arrived in Alice and spent some time researching where to stay, deciding on the Big 4 caravan park just out of town. Went to KFC for lunch (all the walking work undone) and then a wander around town, and also tried to get our tyre fixed which got a puncture going into Lamberts, but they said it was not repairable - just wanted to sell us a new tyre - so we took it back and would look for somewhere else to get it done tomorrow. Dinner in the camp kitchen with lots of others.

Wednesday 21st - we had a big pile of washing to be done, so attacked this before breakfast and got it hung on the line. We then went shopping, as our supplies had nearly run out over the last 2 weeks or so. The Woolies bill was $353 which was a bit scary, but we can now go for another week or 2. Then back to town to get the tyre fixed - amazing how another place can repair it easily, before a bit more retail therapy. A scrummy dinner of salmon fillets with steamed vegies, before some light rain to end the evening.

Thursday 22nd - we awake this morning to rain and thunder, and know that it will be a slow day. After breakfast in the camp kitchen, we spend some time on the computer, and then head into town to do a bit more exploring. A bbq dinner with the Cummings family.

Tomorrow we will head down to Chambers Pillar and then to Rainbow Valley, before heading out to explore the East Macdonnell Ranges the other side of Alice.

If you ever get a chance to head out in this part of the country, do not miss the West Mac's - there is something for everyone, and the country is amazing with its contrasts and colours.

More to come soon.

Di and Hammo

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