Blog 40 - 5th May to 22nd May 2014

Monday 5th May - time to pack and for us and the Cumming's family to leave Coober Pedy and continue our adventure, this time heading north to Cadney Park before turning east to the Painted Desert. On the way out of town, we notice that the road to The Breakaways, a rock formation with lots of colour, is open, so we detour along this track. Whilst the road is now open after the recent rains, the going is decidely slippery, and the 4WD lever is engaged to try to keep us in a straight line. We take some nice photos from each of the 2 lookouts,

and then make our way back to the Stuart highway and spend 20 minutes scraping the mud out from under the wheel arches and off the trailers. We check road conditions at Cadney Park, and the local guy says he was out the yesterday and that the road is quite bad and not advisable. We decide to have a look anyway, thinking we can always turn around and come back if it gets too bad. But in the 24 hours since, it has dried out heaps, and there is only one bad section that requires low range and some herbs. We get into Arkaringa station late in the afternoon and pitch camp, then build a fire for the evening and cook a roast.

Tuesday 6th - we leave the station and make our way the 11km's to the Painted desert - an amzing piece of scenery where nearly all colours of the rainbow are present in the landscape and surrounding hills - very spectacular. We do a walk to the top of the ranges and take lots of photos.

There is also lots of greenery around due to the recent rains, and it is very unlike a desert. From here we continue into Oodnadatta, before heading to Hamilton station, and then the very rough and bumpy drive into Dalhousie Springs - 3 hours for 68km's. Along the way we stop at the Dalhousie ruins and have a wander around the old buildings still standing out in the middle of nowhere.

Then a short drive into the springs, and as soon as we are parked, we grab the swimmers, and wander off to the waterhole for a dip. Very relaxing in the 32 degree water, but after a while it justs gets too hot.

After dinner we all sit around and play a board game late into the night.

Wednesday 7th - another swim before breakfast, and then pack-up for our journey to Mt Dare, along another truly horrible track, with lots of gibber stones and ruts. The last few km's into the homestead were flooded, and we walked some crossings just to be sure. After lunch, we continued into NT

and then to Finke for a refuel (not really much else in town and a bit scary) and then headed east to Lamberts, which is the geographical centre of Australia, a bumpy 12km track off the main road. Right at the centre point is a monument similar to that on top of parliament house,

and a plaque to Mr Lambert, who was the chief mapping expert in Australia. We all sat around the fire, and Di made damper for breakfast.

Thursday 8th - we all shared the damper for breakfast, packed and then drove out to the Stuart highway to Kulgera to air up for the black top drive into Ayres Rock and Yulara.Along the way, we spied Mt Connor in the distance,

all of us thinking it was the rock, but up closer it is quite different, but very nice regardless. We book into the camping ground at Yulara for 4 nights (pay 3, stay 4 deal) and head to the lookout for sunset over the rock.

Friday 9th - Di wakes early to get to the lookout for sunrise. After breakfast, we drive out to the rock, paying our $25 pp park entry fee. After having seen the rock in pictures many, many times, it is surprising how different it is from up close. We decide to do the walk around the base - 11.5 km - and set out for what is a long and tiring walk - but well worth it too.

We drop into the cultural centre, and then drive around for another look before back to camp for a lazy afternoon.

Saturday 10th - Di wakes early for another sunrise, and we wait around to see if the rock climb is open - but due to slight winds, it is closed again today. So we do some shopping before heading to the Olgas for the Valley of the Winds walk. On the way out we stop in at the dune lookout for an impressive view over the entire range.

Then into the carpark, and with backpacks on, we head off. A 7.4km walk along rocky tracks, but the view from the 2nd lookout is worth every step - absolutely amazing.

Around the back of the mountain, then back to the carpark, and then back to camp, stopping along the way for some more photos of the rock.

Sunday 11th - another windy day, so the climb is still closed - looks like we won't be able to climb to the top of the rock - bugger, it is something I really wanted to do while here - maybe next time. So we head out to the Olgas again, and do the Walpa Gorge walk which is only 2.6km's. Back to town, where we stop in at the shops, and wander through the gallery. Then back to camp for a bbq, and some fierce games of Uno.

Monday 12th - we leave Ayres Rock, after checking Trev's wheel bearings, and drive to Kings Canyon, detouring along the way to get some more photos of Mt Connor. We book into the resort (unpowered site), and after setting up camp, wander up to the lookout to see the sun go down over the mountains. After dinner we wander up to the bar / eatery to see Rod Dowsett play some tunes (we had seen him last year at Cape Crawford) - we have a chat after his set is over.

Tuesday 13th - up early and we set off to do the Kings Canyon rim walk, starting with 500 steps up the canyon wall to get to the top. Magic views, and a great walk along the top of the escarpment. Over the ridge, we drop down into the Garden of Eden, and sit by the pool for some time to take it all in - a very special place. Then back up the stairs, and along the other side of the canyon, before the gradual walk back to the car.

A truly inspiring place, and well worth the hard climb to get there. After dinner and some games of Scattergories, we head back to the bar to see Rod play again.

Wednesday 14th - we pack early and quickly dart out to do the walk to Kathleen Springs,

before getting back to camp to hook up the trailer and head off along the Mereenie Loop. We stop in at Albert Namitjera's house where we have lunch in the carpark, before driving along the track into Palm Valley in the Finke NP, where we camp. Not a bad road into the valley, and the views of the mountains are lovely. Di take some more sunset photos of the creek in front of the campsite.

Thursday 15th - after breakfast, we all set out to do the loop walk around the valley. We drive the 6km's to the parking area, and then set out on foot, climbing the escarpment first. We get to the far reach of the walk, and the views over the valley are astounding, so we sit on a rock for a while just to take it all in. From here we climb down into the valley and follow the creek back to the carpark, stopping along the way at several waterholes, and to look at the palm trees.

Back to camp for lunch, and then a lazy afternoon relaxing, with Di and Olivia doing some drawings - they also saw a mulga snake not far from camp.

Friday 16th - we do another walk this morning, this time around the nearby mountian range. A bit rougher walk, with lots of climbing, and rock-hopping, and much of it at a side angle too. But the views again are breath-taking, and worth the exertion.

A bit more of a walk around some rock outcrops before back to camp again for lunch and some more relaxing. This evening after dinner, the ranger comes by for a talk around the fire, which is very interesting - lots of questions about snakes, dingos and the palm trees.

Saturday 17th - we leave the valley and make our way to Hermansburg for some supplies. Then we back-track to join the next road that goes past Gosse Bluff, where we stop for another walk around the interior rim of the meteorite crater, before climbing a lookout which gives a great view of the size of the hole in the ground. After lunch, we drive north, stopping at Tylers Pass lookout for views back to the Bluff,

and then turn east to Ormiston Gorge in the West Macdonnell Ranges where we set-up camp. We do another walk to the Ghost Gum lookout into the gorge,

before wandering down to the waterhole for a quick look before dinner. And another magnificent sunset.

Sunday 18th - another day, another walk to complete - this time the 7km loop walk around the pound, and back through the gorge. We had been told that the last part of the walk was still flooded, and we would need to cross the creek, which was about chest height, so we took appropriate gear anticipating that we would get well and truly wet. After all the walking we had been doing, it was taking its toll, and we were all getting weary, but the creek crossing woke us up - it was so bloody cold in the water. We rock-hopped back along the gorge, before climbing down the small cliff-face to the watewrhole, and another swim just to cool off - still bloody cold, but worth it anyway. A relaxed afternoon, before a butterfly marinated lamb on the free bbq's for dinner.

Monday 19th - we decided to go for a drive to some of the surrounding areas, and took Sam and Olivia with us, giving Trev and Bec some private time to themselves. We drove back towards Redbank Gorge and went walking yet again, this time along the creek bed to where the gorge is only a few metres wide. But the water was icy, so we didn't explore any further, but the kids did climb the walls of the gorge, way higher than their parents would have let them.

We were planning to drive into Roma Gorge, but the 8.5km's was said to take 1 hour each way, so we opted not to do it, and instead drove Mount Sonder lookout (also called the Sleeping Lubra) and then to Glen Helen gorge, where we walked to the waterhole, before Sam and I climbed up to a cave in the rocks (cause we can).

Lunch in the carpark, before heading back to camp, where the kids went swimming, and we relaxed, vowing not to do any more walking.

Tuesday 20th - we leave Ormiston Gorge and head for Alice Springs, stopping along the way at Ellery Creek Big Hole, which is stunning with the sun shining off the cliff walls.

But the water was colder than before, so no swimming - looked very enticing, but the feet started to ache after a minute or so. We arrived in Alice and spent some time researching where to stay, deciding on the Big 4 caravan park just out of town. Went to KFC for lunch (all the walking work undone) and then a wander around town, and also tried to get our tyre fixed which got a puncture going into Lamberts, but they said it was not repairable - just wanted to sell us a new tyre - so we took it back and would look for somewhere else to get it done tomorrow. Dinner in the camp kitchen with lots of others.

Wednesday 21st - we had a big pile of washing to be done, so attacked this before breakfast and got it hung on the line. We then went shopping, as our supplies had nearly run out over the last 2 weeks or so. The Woolies bill was $353 which was a bit scary, but we can now go for another week or 2. Then back to town to get the tyre fixed - amazing how another place can repair it easily, before a bit more retail therapy. A scrummy dinner of salmon fillets with steamed vegies, before some light rain to end the evening.

Thursday 22nd - we awake this morning to rain and thunder, and know that it will be a slow day. After breakfast in the camp kitchen, we spend some time on the computer, and then head into town to do a bit more exploring. A bbq dinner with the Cummings family.

Tomorrow we will head down to Chambers Pillar and then to Rainbow Valley, before heading out to explore the East Macdonnell Ranges the other side of Alice.

If you ever get a chance to head out in this part of the country, do not miss the West Mac's - there is something for everyone, and the country is amazing with its contrasts and colours.

More to come soon.

Di and Hammo

Blog 39 - 25th April to 4th May 2014

Friday 25th April - this morning we leave Wilpena Pound and head towards Arkaroola. First stop is Hucks lookout for some more views back over the Flinders Ranges, and then continue to the Great Wall of China, a rock formation along a ridge that looks spectacular.

Then to the small town of Blinman, whose claim to fame is being the high town in SA - but not much else to look at. After a coffee / lime milkshake, we hit the dirt road towards Arkaroola, stopping along the way at Chambers Gorge, which is a drive along a dry creekbed. As it was getting late, we decided not to walk into the gorge, but continued on, arriving in Arkaroola just before 5pm. We book in for 2 nights, and also for a helicopter joyflight in the morning.

Saturday 26th - we awake to an overcast morning, and decide that we will try to postpone the chopper flight until the weather improves. Instead we decide to go for a walk along the Acacia Ridge track, and get a lift down to the start of the trail, with a 5.8km walk back to camp. The first part of the walk is all uphill, to get to the top of the ridge, but the views were well worth it, with mountains off in the distance all around, and also Lake Frome covered in salt beyond this.

We descend down the ridge back to camp and have some lunch and then a relaxed afternoon around camp hoping the weather improves.

Sunday 27th - the weather is a bit better, so at 7.30am we jump into the chopper, after deciding to get the pilot to take the doors off for our flight - much better views, but a LOT colder at this time of day. The views over the mountains are magnificent, and the area is very rugged. We fly over Barraranna gorge and see some waterholes down below. A flight over the campsite, and our 20 minutes was up and we are landing back at the airfield.

After breakfast, we book in for another 2 nights and then decide to do a loop walk through the Barraranna gorge that we had seen from above,

so we drive out to Welcome mine, stopping along the way at the Ochre wall.

This is a 7km round trip, with some great scenery, and lots of contrasting landscapes - piles of slate and then lots of river rocks, with steep gorges and sandy patches too. It was a very tiring walk, but worth it to see it from the ground. Another relaxing afternoon, followed by a group BBQ at the homestead around the swimming pool.

Monday 28th - this morning we are booked in for the Ridge Top tour - a 2 hour bunpy ride in a converted Land Cruiser ute out to Sillers lookout,

stopping at several places along the way. The track is very rugged, and the rocks would shred tyres in no time, so glad couldn't bring the Triton. The driver said that a set of tyres lasts between 3,000 and 4,000 km's only due to the terrain. Once atop the lookout, the views are amazing, again over the ranges and looking out to the salt lake in the distance.

We can also faintly see the uranium mine out on the plains. After lunch, we collect some firewood and relax chatting to neighbours.

Tuesday 29th - after breakfast, we pack the camper and leave Arkaroola, heading into the Gammon Ranges for a short drive around. After a while, we decide to drop the trailer, and continue with just the car, to complete the loop track into Grindell's hut. We stop at Gill's lookout to admire the views over the mountains,

and then continue to the hut, where we wander around in the rain admiring the stonework and the effort to have built such a house.

Back to re-attach the trailer, and we take the dirt road to Leigh Creek via some small communities. We set-up in the caravan park, and quickly migrate to the camp kitchen as the rain has continued. The car and camper are covered in red, rocky clay / cement, so I try to wipe some off, making large blobs of muck in the campsite. We meet a family who are traveling for 12 months, and also an Austrian guy who is riding his bicycle to Darwin (nutcase).

Wednesday 30th - after packing up, we drive into town and do some shopping for re-supplies, then to the post office, and then some fuel and air, before driving just up the road to Copley to the bakery to get some pies for lunch. We stop at Lyndhurst and have the chili pie, pastie, and quandong tart, before continuing to the ruins of Farina.

What was once a thriving town, is now a well preserved set of ruins of many of the old buildings, with the underground bakery still being used today. After wandering for a while, we continue north, arriving in Marree, where we set-up camp behind the pub which is a free camp. Not long after, we are met by Trevor, Bec, Sam and Olivia whom we met last night, and also a coulple we had met back in Cape Le Grande NP in Esperance WA, so it was off to the pub for a few drinks before dinner.

Thursday 1st May - we chatted to the other campers in the carpark this morning, and the concensus was that most were going to make for William Creek today, hoping that the roads to Oodnadatta and Coober Pedy would open after the rains had resulting in them being closed. This was the start of the Oodnadatta track, and we were keen to travel along it as much as we could, before diverting to Coober Pedy. Not long after leaving Marree we arrive at Planehenge, where there are some amazing sculptures beside the road.

And the local Ghan hover bus service is no longer operating, but would have been fun in the day.

Along the way we stop at the lookout over Lake Eyre South, which was fairly full with water and a nice sight to see. Next stop was Curdimurka railway siding,

where we had a wander around and then drove down to the railway bridge across the creek.

Then to some springs where the artesian bore water bubbles from the ground - called Blanche Cup and Bubbles spring.

From here it was only a short drive to Coward Springs, where we had some lunch before a short walk to the spa bath

and the museum. After leaving here, the weather started to get a bit worse, with lots of gray and black clouds, so we high-tailed it to William Creek, stopping in the camping area for the night. We managed to score a spot beside the tour group shelters, so had some reprieve from the wind and rain.
We went to bed hoping the roads would open tomorrow.

Friday 2nd - after an early morning walk for some exercise, we check the road signs which reveal that the road to Oodnadatta is open for 4WD's, but the road to Coober Pedy is closed. But a check of the website says both are open, so we try to confirm, not wanting to break the law and risk a HUGE fine. We finally track down a guy from the roads dept, who tells us the sign is broken and he forgot to update it, but due to some rain in the last 10 minutes, the road to Coober Pedy is now closed, so our only option is to head for Oodnadatta or stay where we are. Not much to do in William Creek, so we set off for the Pink Roadhouse.

The road starts out very slippery, but gets a bit better despite the drizzle and rain that continues. Along the way we stop at Algebrakina bridge where the Old Ghan railway crossed a river,

before we arrive in Oodnadatta after 207km's. We fuel up and book into the caravan park behind the pub, where we meet Trevor, Bec, Sam and Olivia again - we also meet Steve and Beccy from Marree - and sit around the fire after dinner. A nice rainbow just before dusk.

Saturday 3rd - over breakfast, we decided to drive to Coober Pedy with Trevor and family, while Steve and family head north to Marla. Another 200km's of driving, with the scenery changing several times - first it was red gibber stones, then yellow sandy soil, before turning to green with the amount of recent rain - who said the desert was all the same and boring. The last section into town is constant rain so the mud is building up again underneath the car and camper.

We book into the Big4 caravan park, and settle into the camp kitchen and TV room for the night to escape the wet.

Sunday 4th - after a relaxed breakfast, we drive into town for a wander around, stopping at the info centre, then an art gallery / jewellery shop which was underground. Then into the underground Catholic church which is quite amazing.

 A bit more of a walk,

before hitting the IGA for some more supplies and back to camp. I spend some time trying to get the computer talking to the wifi, before typing this and linking in all the pictures.

Tomorrow we will continue with Trevor and family along the Stuart highway, before turning right to see the painted desert and back towards Oodnadatta, before going further north to Dalhousie Springs and Mt Dare. Then across into the NT to Finke - the adventure continues.

More to come soon.

Di and Hammo