Blog 19 - 2nd to 15th September 2013

Monday 2nd Sept - after doing some last minute shopping, and casting our vote in the Federal election, we leave Kununurra and drive towards the start of the Gibb River Road (GRR). At the turn-off, we see the sign that says it is over 700 km's until we hit Derby, and most of this is dirt, with a very good chance of lots of rocks and corrugations. Would we make it? Would the trailer hold up to the punishment? Would it be the Triton's turn to have a dummy-spit? Along the way, we pass by the Cockburn Ranges, which seem to have been pushed out of the ground, and someone has gone around the edge with a trowel and created a cliff all the way - very amazing to see.

We stop in at Emma Gorge and find out we will need to come back after setting up camp at El Questro Station a few km's down the road. Tar until the turn-off, and then 20km's of dirt to camp. But we do manage to get a shady spot with a bit of grass not too far from the swimming hole.

We went for a drive around the station, stopping at Saddle-Back Ridge lookout along a steep windy 4WD track. Then onto Pidgeon Hole lookout before driving to the jetty for where the tour boat leaves for Chamberlain Gorge. Then across the rocky causeway to Branco's lookout.

Views are very nice across the ranges. Back to camp via the Durrack tree (7 trunk boab tree) and had a quick glimpse of the homestead (where the rich folk stay for $2,500+ per night). Had a swim just down from our site.

Tuesday - got up early to complete the El Questro gorge walk - about 3km's return, but mostly over rocks with a bit of climbing involved. Only ever planned to go to half-way, as the 2nd half involved lots of climbing. The ferns along the gorge were very pretty, and the rock pools were very inviting. Finally arrived at the swimming spot at half-way, and the pool was small, but quite deep, and the water temp was perfect to cool off.

Retraced our trail back to the car, and back to camp for another swim in the river.

Then after dinner headed up to the bar to listen to the resident singer over a few drinks.

Wednesday - up early again (at 5.45am) to start the walk to Champagne Springs half-way point again (the full walk takes 6 hours to complete and is quite challenging). Didn't see a lot on this walk other than a 1,000 year old boab tree and some more ferns. Back to camp very weary from being out in the very hot sun - it was 36 degrees by around 9.00am. Decided to drive out to Zebedee Springs for a late morning soak in the thermal pools under the palm trees.

A beautiful spot with a red-rock mountain backdrop, and small little pools to soak in and relax while taking in the views.

Stayed a bit past the closing time of 12 noon, and then back to camp via Jackaroo's waterhole. Another afternoon swim before chilling out around camp.

Thursday - up early again (starting to become a habit - NOT) to drive back to Emma Gorge to do the walk of 3.2km's return over rocks again. The views along the way were very nice with the gorge slowly getting narrower the further we went. Finally arrived at the pool at the end, and this was certainly worth every step we had taken - it was magnificent, and we decided to stay for over 3 hours just taking in the views.

In the left side, you had a small stream of water still coming over the falls into the pool. But in the far right-hand side, there was a small thermal spring that was spilling warm water into a sitting space just big enough for 2 that made the slightly chilly water a nice change. We watched as the sun changed position, lighting up different aspects of the gorge throughout the morning. To float around on your back looking up at the cliffs and trees and ferns growing from the walls was just awesome - worth getting to the Kimberley's just to see this. As we were leaving, a fellow traveller pointed out a small olive python in a tree. Back along the walking track to the car, and then drive back to camp. We invited our previous neighbour to dinner that night, and enjoyed spag-bol while sharing stories.

Friday - time to leave and continue our journey along the GRR. Packed early before it got too hot, and made our way to Home Valley station to ask about some of the falls / waterholes. They told us that Bindoola Falls was 16km's west along the GRR, so we decided to visit this on the way. We stopped at a lookout back over the Cockburn Ranges which were spectacular.

A short walk from the car, and we were standing on top of a huge cliff where the water would normally flow down into the pool below. But with no water in the river, it was only the remainder of the prior wet season that filled the pool. We followed the path and climbed down, and had the entire pool to ourselves (about the size of an olympic pool).

After a few swims, we dried off and climbed back up to the top and back to the car to continue our journey west. Next stop was Ellenbrae station, which advertises fresh scones with jam and cream. Had these on the back deck and watched the variety of finches that were flying in to stuff themselves at the bird feeders. The most popular one was the double barred finch which had black stripes around it's neck, and tiny black spots on it's back and wings.

Booked in for the night and set-up camp and then a short walk to the waterhole to wash the feet - amazing how dirty they get in the red dirt which is everywhere.

Saturday - packed early again, and then drove the short distance to do the nature walk to Sandy Grove waterhole for a swim. A 4km return walk, and we had the entire space to ourselves, so a nudie swim was undertaken - very nice.

Back to the car, and back onto the GRR to drive towards the Kalumbaru turn-off. This heads north to the Aboriginal community, but is also the road to take that leads to the turn-off to Mitchell Falls. It was 59km's to Drysdale station, but the corrugations on this section of road were attrocious in places, with us slowing to 10km/h to stop being shaken apart. Finally arrived and set-up camp, then drove down the road to Miners Pool for an explore along the river and a swim in the lagoon.

Sunday - left Drysdale and continued north for 101km's to the turn-off to cross the King Edward River. Here we stopped at an Aboriginal art site in amongst the rocks and had a walk around.

Then it was time for a cooling swim in river

before continuing the 88km's to the Mitchell Falls campsite - took us 2.5 hours with some slow going, and lots of palm trees along the way - very bizarre to see these in the bush.

Checked out the helicopter options to fly over the falls and planned our day for tomorrow before dinner.

Monday - got up early again, and we left camp for the walk at 6.50am to do the 8.6km return trip to the falls. Plan was to walk there, spend some time swimming and taking photographs of the falls, and then walk back with enough time to then do a helicopter flight back over the falls in the afternoon. The walk in was lovely, but hot - the return walk would be a challenge in the heat. First stop was Little Merten falls for a look, and then downstream to Big Merten falls, which had a tiny dribble of water still flowing over the top - the gorge was HUGE with massive rocks and very steep cliff walls.

Another 500 metres and we arrive at Mitchell Falls, and take some time to absorb the view.

Then a quick clamber over the rocks to view them from the other side (looking back at them) - just spectacular to see.

After lots of photos, it is now time for a swim in the waterholes above the falls - 2 separate places just to make sure we enjoyed it. The 2nd spot was great with some small fish and deep enough to not be able to stand.

Then some more walking around the top of the falls, some more photos,

another swim or 3, and we decide to head back to camp, stopping again at Big Merten for another look, and the to the waterhole below Little Merten falls for another swim to cool off

- the heat was taking its toll on both of us. There was enough water flowing to be able to stand underneath the falls and get a massage from the water. Then back to camp for a cold drink and to sit in the shade waiting for the sun to set.

Tuesday - we leave Mitchell Falls, and stop at a 2nd Aboriginal art site, walking through the rocks.

Lots of paintings here, with several varieties, and a burial site too. Had another swim in the King Edward River, before driving back to Drysdale station for the night again. The shower was very nice after a few days in the red dirt.

Wednesday - left camp, and back along the corrugated road to re-join the GRR. Continued west, with the road getting worse than previous so slow going. Stopped in at Mount Elizabeth station, where they gave us the map to the swimming hole which had a nice sandy beach, and was great for a swim. After lunch, we drove to Barnett River gorge, a short drive of 3km's from the GRR, but took 30 minutes as it was very rocky and low-range 1st for the last 500 metres. Set-up camp back from the gorge, and then went for a late afternoon swim before dinner.

Thursday - packed up and went for another swim with the place to ourselves again. Next stop was the Barnett River roadhouse for fuel and to find out about Manning Gorge. But this was a 1.5 hour walk each way and the sun was scorching so we decided to give it a miss and instead go to Galvans Gorge which was only a 1km walk each way.

This was a semi-circular set of cliffs and waterfall, with a round swimming hole below - and swing ropes from the overhanging trees. Had a lazy relax here before back in the Triton to go to the next gorge - Adcock Gorge which was a 5km drive from the GRR.

Again, we were all alone here, so had a swim, watched the lazy goanna on the rocks, and laughed as the corellas had a bath in the waterfall on a high ledge. We were planning on staying at Charnley station, but it was closed for the season, so decided to continue onto Imitji. From here we had planned to visit Silent Grove and Bells Gorge which is the nicest along the GRR, but some bushfires had been raging since the day before, so this was all closed off. A few km's past the turn-off we started to climb the King Leopold Ranges, and saw a lookout that was big enough for several vehicles to stop, so decided to set-up camp with 3 backpackers (1 French / 1 German / 1 Finn).

Also chatted to a local bloke who had stopped for the view. As we cooked dinner and chatted around the fire, the bushfires in the valley below continued into the night, with the flames shooting up on occasions and clearly visible in the darkness. But the wind was blowing the right way, so we knew we would be safe for the night. 3 different swimming holes in the one day - not bad eh???

Friday - up early again, and packed and on our way by 7.30am. Wanted to stop in at Lennard Gorge but this was closed due to the fires too, so we continued westwards. Not long after the Queen Victoria head rock formation (looks very uncanny), we turned left along the Fairfield - Windjana road heading for Windjana Gorge. Arrived about 10am, so left the camper parked, and did the 5km return walk along the gorge.

 

Along the way we saw lots of freshies, and also some amazing mountains, but the heat was stiffling so we returned exhausted. A great park to stay at for $11 p.p. with real flushing toilets and solar hot showers - very flash. Relaxed at camp for the afternoon while Di did a painting and photographed some more birds and a goanna.

Saturday - after leaving camp, we stopped in at Lillimooloora police station ruins where Jandemarra had shot the officer and went on the run for nearly 3 years, hiding our in the gorges and Tunnel Creek. The buildings were built out of the local limestone rock, and they still stay quite stable today. Then onto Tunnel Creek, where we changed into swimmers and reef shoes, grabbed our torches, and walked the 750 metres through the mountain range where the water has cut a channel.

A freshwater spring part way through sustains several types of fish, some cherubin, and supposedly some freshies in the tunnel. The water only got to knee-deep, but the walk was very nice, with lots of limestone formations to see along the way. Half-way along, the mountain had caved in, with light entering from above. At the end, we turned around and made our way back, exploring some different areas along the way. There was still some limestone dripping down hoping to one day join in the middle to form a column. From here we continued to the highway, pumped tyres back up, and drove to Fitzroy Crossing for the next 2 nights. Stayed at a very flash caravan park, chatted to the neighbours Chris and Mandy, and then went to the pub to watch the Roosters beat Manly and for dinner and a couple of beers. Then we competed in a trivia quiz, which revealed we don't really know too much, coming last out of 9 teams.

Sunday - no need to pack up today as we are staying another night, so a relaxed breakfast. Then drive out of town to Geike Gorge NP to do the boat tour along the gorge at 9.30am.

When the Fitzroy River floods each year, the water cleans the surface of the gorge and slowly erodes it over the millions of years to reveal a spectacular white below and gray above in the limestone cliffs. Saw some more freshies, and some birds that make their nests under the overhangs out of the mud from the riverbank. Back to camp after going across the old bridge, and finally give the Triton a very thorough bath, both inside and out. Di did a massive load of washing after 2 weeks out in the bush. Then just chilled around camp in the shade before dinner.

Tomorrow we will continue west, heading towards Derby and then Broome, before making our way north to Cape Leveque for a look. After this, we will then start our way south, heading towards Perth, but with lots and lots to see on the way.

More to come soon

Di and Hammo

Blog 18 - 23rd August to 1st September 2013

Friday 23rd August - another trailer problem to fix this morning, so up early, packed and down at the repair place right on 7.00am as planned. Mechanic didn't arrive until 8.00am, so already an hour behind, with our plans to be in the Bungle Bungles campsite by tonight. Left the camper to be fixed and went for coffee in town. All fixed by midday, so on the road for the drive from Kununurra to the Bungles via Doon Doon and Warnum. Once we left the tar, the road was bloody awful, with the 52km's to the visitor centre taking 2.5 hours. So didn't get to the campsite until 5.15pm just as it was getting dark. But we did get the sun setting on the mountain range, which was absolutely lovely to see. Got set-up and chatted to our neighbours before dinner.

Saturday - as we had breakfast, 2 x blue-winged kookaburra's arrived near my feet to have an argument

- they didn't seem at all perturbed that us humans were around. On the way to the southern carpark for the walks, we passed the airfield, so booked in our helicopter flight for 30 minutes over the Bungles - $335 each but WELL worth it - the photos were amazing, and the number of gorges within the ranges are incredible.

After the flight, we continued to the carpark to do our walks, with the first around some of the honeycomb domes,

and then along Piccaninny Creek to the lookout,

and then finally into Cathedral Gorge which is absolutely HUGE - it is astounding how water can carve out such a massive area underneath the surrounding rock surfaces.

Back to camp as it was getting very hot - the 4 days we were in the Bungles would each hit 40 degrees. Spent some time collecting some wood from the rangers buggy in preparation for our roast tonight - mmmm lamb!!!

Sunday - today we move camp from the southern area of the park to the northern end, only a drive of about 18km's but worth a change anyway. Stopped in at the visitor centre and checked-in (we arrived too late 2 days ago and they were closed) and Di bought some postcards to send home. After setting up camp, we relaxed around the camper until 11.30am when we headed for the Echidna Chasm walk, which is so narrow, that it is only a very small window when the sunlight actually shines down into the chasm. After walking along the rocky creek-bed, we arrive at the entrance to the chasm, and it progresses to get narrower the further in we go, until it is not much more than shoulder width apart, with the walls reaching 300 metres into the air - just mind-blowing how nature can create such crazy things.

At several points, there were rocks wedged overhead that had fallen into the chasm and were being held in place by the rock walls. Back to camp after a short walk to another lookout, and spend the afternoon in the shade while Di did a painting of the Bungles.

Monday - another early morning to try to beat the heat, with a walk into Mini Palm Gorge.

Another walk along a rocky creek-bed, before we start to rock-hop around, over and through some of the massive boulders that have fallen from the cliffs above. After climbing a couple of ladders and sets of steps, we arrive at a viewing platform that looks down into the floor of the gorge which has several small trees set in a large opening, but again with cliff walls that rise over 300 metres from the bottom. The view back down this valley / chasm is also breath-taking. Back to camp, and we decide to set-up the shower as it has been a couple of days without a rinse. It was so nice to finally be cool - we didn't bother making the water hot. Just before sunset, we walked up to the lookout behind the campsite to see the sun setting on the Bungles range and took lots of pictures - they don't quite come close to the real thing.

Tuesday - left camp and tackled the track back to the highway - 2.5 hours to cover 52km's - lots of corrugations, ups and downs, and heaps of rocks to dodge. Turned south towards Halls Creek where we set-up in the caravan park. Had lunch in town, and sat by the pool in the afternoon.

Wednesday - we asked our neighbours if they would like to join us in a drive down to Wolfe Creek meteorite crater (their car had done an alternator), so we drove the 10km's out of town until the start of the Tanami Track, and then another 140km's along this until we arrived at the crater.

A quick walk up to the rim, and the view was astounding - 850 metres across, and about 50 metres down, with a bare patch in the centre surrounded by a neat circle of trees - all caused by the heat / impact / etc of when the 50,000 tonne chunk of rock collided with the ground at a speed of 15km/second about 300,000 years ago. Back to town, with some shopping, and back to the coolness of the pool again.

Thursday - time to say goodbye to Carolyn and Graham who came with us yesterday, and head east towards the NT border so we could eventually go around the back of the Bungles and Lake Argyle to arrive in Kununurra again. First stop was China Walls (white sandstone blocks piled on each other in the middle of nowhere), then to Caroline Pool (which had some water but was not flowing), and then to Palm Springs (which had flowing water, so we went for a swim - the water from the springs was warm but really only a trickle - nice to cool off anyway).

Next stop was Sawpit Gorge (another pool but not flowing - surrounded on 1 side by steep cliff walls, and lots of bulldust), and finally continued to Marella Gorge which took a bit of finding as it was not sign-posted.

Camped right along the trickle that was the river and spent some time exploring the river bed area. Had a magic night out under the stars on our own in the middle of the bush.

Friday - packed early and back onto Duncan Road, which turned north and criss-crossed the WA/NT border before arriving back on the Victoria highway 300km's later. Generally a very good dirt road, but some patches were very rough and slow. Had lunch at the entry to Keep River NP, and through the quarantine station again after handing over our fruit and veges. Drove onto Kununurra again, but this time chose a different caravan park to stay at down on the river - even got a grassy site.

Saturday - we were planning to leave to start the Gibb River Rd today, but this bloody election and voting was causing us some dramas. After lots of investigations, we decided it would be best to stay until Monday and cast our vote then before starting our trip into the Kimberleys. And it was the Kununurra Cup race meeting today too, so when in Rome.....

We got as dressed up as we could and headed out to the race track, which has a really nice back-drop of some rocky mountains that changed colour as the afternoon progressed. This was the big race day of the year, with lots of the girls busting out the best frocks and hats, and many of the guys wearing their best shorts and thongs. Lots of fun, and the bar did a roaring trade. Back to town, then a short walk to the pub for dinner, where most of the locals from the races decided to go too.

Sunday - today we are off to explore the town of Wyndham, which is the top town in WA - the most northern township. Along the way we stop at The Grotto, a natural swimming hole surrounded on 3 sides by rock walls and said to be 170 metres deep.

The water looked inviting, but again it was not running, so we opted to continue on with the hope of a swim later in the day. Did a quick drive around the town of Wyndham, and then drove to the top of the 5 Rivers lookout which had some amazing views across the town, the tidal flats, and along the river to the north and out to sea.

Lunch at the cafe in town, where we got some info about a swimming hole called Mollys Spring, which is only 30km's out of Kununurra and is a favourite of the locals. Finally found the right track, and drove to the carpark. A short walk later, we arrive at the astounding waterhole, again surrounded by cliff walls.

After a couple of swims, we walked back to the car for the drive back to town. A bit of shopping for dinner and back to the camper to battle the bugs who congregate around the lights and fly into everything you are trying to do.

Tomorrow we will vote, do some last minute shopping for fresh fruit and veges, and then start our trip across the Gibb River Road - we have heard lots of stories about the state of the road, but also some great tips about where to stay and some swimming spots - really looking forward to the next few weeks. But as we will be in this remote area, we will probably not have internet access, so it might be a couple of weeks before our next post - Di will keep the diary going, and we should have lots of pictures for next time.

Di and Hammo