Blog 15 - 23rd July to 6th August 2013

Tuesday 23rd July - Woke up to another windy and cold day in Mt Isa. Went to the info centre, and then did a few things in town, including moving a car for Troy. Had a chat to our neighbours, and then went up to the lookout over the mine at sunset - very impressive, and a nice sign showing distances to all places in the world.

Went to the Buff Club (not a strip club) for drinks and dinner.

Wednesday - Matt's birthday today. Today we leave Mt Isa and head towards Lawn Hill NP. This is a place I have been wanting to take Di for many years. After driving west towards Cammoweal, we turn north back towards the Gulf. After some bitumen and lots of dirt, we turn towards Riversleigh station for the short-cut into Lawn Hill. We arrive at camp at about 2.00pm and set-up, having just missed James and Amy who have headed off for a walk. We decided to do a walk too, heading down river for the Cascades walk.

A very pretty area amongst the palm trees. Back at camp, we all catch-up and prepare to explore this place for the next 3 days.

Thursday - up early to complete the Island Stack walk in the cool of the morning. A short walk out to the start, then a couple of hundred metres up the cliff face,

and then a 1.7km walk around the top of the plateau with views of the gorge below,

and the surrounding plains in the distance - very impressive and some really nice photos.

Back to camp for a relaxed lunch, before heading down to the canoe hire place for 2.00pm to do a paddle up the gorge and back. We decided it would be good to hire them at this time, as our 2 hours hire covered us until the man went home at 4.00pm so we could keep the paddles and canoes until morning, and go for a bit longer.

The paddle up the gorge was spectacular, with the sun shining on the southern walls, and the crystal clear water passing by underneath our paddles.

At the half-way point, we jumped out, and dragged the canoes around the waterfalls,

and then continued our journey upstream. It became very narrow in 1 place, and we needed to paddle quite hard against the current to get through, but it was worth it as it opened up again into a big area with some small waterfalls at the end that cascaded off the surrounding banks.

Time to turn around

 

and head back to the first falls for a swim with the fishes.

After swimming across to get under the cascading water, we dried off in the sun, and then continued our return journey back to camp, arriving just after 5.00pm feeling exhausted but exhilerated. A relaxing night.

Friday - todays walk was the Wild Dog Dreaming walk,

to see some Aboriginal art on the rock walls, and then continue on to where the rivers meet. Amy got scared senseless by a wild pig asleep on the track that woke just as she walked towards it - cue "BIG SCREAM". Back to camp again for lunch, and some minor trailer repairs to the suspension, where a nut had fallen off, but on closer inspection, most of the bolts and plates on the left side had worn badly. A quick ask of the NP Ranger, and we were looking for spares in his shed. All fixed after a few hours, with the spring now siting in its normal position and everything tight again. Michelle and Jeff, who we had met earlier at Boulia joined us and we chatted late into the night.

Saturday - a short drive south to the Riversleigh D fossil site where we saw lots of bones from extinct animals captured in the rocks. Then down to the Gregory River crossing for a quick look and some photos,

before back to camp for lunch and a relaxing afternoon. Late afternoon we headed off on the Constance Range walk, to capture the sunset from the top and to have a look over the surrounding area. It was tough walking to the top, but well worth it once there, with views for miles, and also back along the gorge and surrounding cliff faces.

The girls took lots of photos while the sun dropped behind the horizon, whilst James and I simply enjoyed the view.

A dark walk back to camp, some dinner, and then fronted on Michelle and Jeff's campsite for drinks and a chat.

Sunday - time to leave this magic place, but not before a final swim in the river - it was lovely and a great relaxing cool-off. A quick stop in at Adel's Grove for fuel, before continuing north towards Kingfisher Camp. We were making good time, and would probably be there before lunch. Alas, my plans were to go very awry........
It felt like the brakes on the trailer had locked on, so I pulled ot the side of the road for a quick look. I was certainly not expecting there to be flames coming from the centre of the hub!!!!!

After extinguishing these, it was time to determine what to do. A 50 minute call on the satellite phone determined that a tow truck was too far away, and it would be best to simply get the guys from Bowthorn Station, about 2kms up the road to assist us. It was their day off, but the manager Mick was only happy to lend a hand. His comment of "I'll be back in half an hour luv"to his wife as he walked out the door - boy, oh boy, was he wrong. With the build-up of heat, the bearing, washer and nut had all welded themselves to the axle. Not long after, Mick's 2IC from the station, Jake came along, and with their help, managed to remove the nut but nothing else. It was decided to limp the trailer into the station, and work on it in the shed where some more tools were available. At 6.30pm, we gave up and set camp, with Mick making a call to Brad from Kingfisher to come in the morning and lend a hand. The guys from the station had been a massive help to us, and even allowed us to use the facilities in their house while we stayed the night out by the shed. They also allowed us to plug into power to keep the fridges running.

Monday - a very early morning, to make sure we were up with the guys from the station and ready to go. Brad arrived at about 9.00am, and he worked for several hours, first using the oxy torch to cut the bearing off, and then the welder to repair the axle and hub, before fitting up new bearings and wishing us well on our way - we were planning to meet him that afternoon back at Kingfisher Camp. Heading off slowly, we got 5km's out of the station before the brakes came on again, and the side mirror revealed that the bearing had collapsed again, and the wheel had nearly fallen off - lots of swearing from me !@#$%^.

Now we were really screwed, and would need a tow to the closest town. James and I went back to the station to call NRMA, and after several hours, with the girls back at the camper on the side of the track in the middle of nowhere, we were told that someone might be able to come out to rescue us on Wednesday, but they would need to provide a quote before it could be booked in. If it was more than $4,000, we would need to pay the difference. If you don't already have it, GET NRMA PREMIUM CARE if you are travelling - it is a MUST. Camped back at the station again wondering how long we might be here. We all spent a LOT of time talking to and patting the station dog, Stumples.

Tuesday - more phone calls to NRMA, some phone calls to mechanics in Burketown, and then James and I get to working out how to keep the wheel on the axle so it can be dragged onto a tilt-tray truck. Between us we design and fabricate a sandwich plate to hold the bearings in the hub, and also the hub to the axle - won't get us far, but should do the job.

Still waiting for a quote for the tow, but it has been confirmed he is coming tomorrow, so James and Amy depart to continue their holidays. A massive thanks to both of them for their help, support, and for keeping us sane through a very trying couple of days. Got a call from NRMA at about 3.00pm that the tow will cost $2,530 to get us back to Burketown and that NRMA will pick-up the cost - YAY. Set-up the tent at the station and hope that tomorrow will be a betetr day.

Wednesday - we were told that the tilt-tray should be there about mid-morning, so we wait patiently as the few vehicles go past. He finally arrives at 12.30pm, and we head out to the disaster site. But he is not in a tilt-tray truck - he has got a LandCruiser ute with a dual axle car trailer on the back, which will make it much harder to secure our trailer. After nearly 2 hours to get it on the trailer and strapped down,

we begin our journey towards Burketown. Got into town about 5.30pm and straight to the caravan park to set-up camp in our small tent, and then around to the tow yard to make sure everything is good to go tomorrow.

Thursday - arrive at the mechanics at 8.30am to assist with taking it off the trailer, and working out a plan. I spend some time with Di measuring underneath the trailer to confirm nothing structurally is bent, and then start investigating where to get a new axle, brakes, hubs etc. The more calls I made, the more I realised it would have to be made specially for us, and would take up to 2 weeks.

Friday - more calls to suppliers in Townsville, with a supply truck coming up to Burketown twice a week. Finally got onto Noel from Eclipse Trailers who knew what we were after, and within a few hours had rung back with lots of answers, but with the axle still needing to be made in Brisbane and freighted up. Placed the order, and he pulled a few strings to get the order rushed through to be finished by Monday. Spent some time chatting with our neighbours at the caravan park.

Saturday - went for a morning walk, and saw ALL of the town in about 30 minutes. It was going to be a very boring week or 2. Found some hawks and an owl just across the road.

Spent some time checking under the car for anything loose. In the afternoon, we decided to play tourist in Burketown and see the sights. We saw the Boiling Down Works (fat rendering plant), the Landsborough tree, the boat ramp, the hot water bore, and the Albert River bridge. We had now seen almost everything there is to do in town - should have spread it out a bit more. Chatted with our new neighbours again that night.

Sunday - went for another morning walk, then breakfast. Decided a drive back east to Leichhardt Falls would be a nice distraction for a few hours, and it was only 71km's away. Spent an hour or 2 looking around, but still didn't see a croc.

Back for lunch, and more chatting to the big group from Sydney who had arrived the day before.

Monday - another day in Burketown - not much to do when you have seen everything. A quick walk to the bakery, and then to the seafood shop, where we got a nice big piece of king salmon for dinner - yummo, with a sprinkle of cajun seasoning on the bbq. More talking to the neighbours, and several drinks around the torch-light fire.

Tuesday - another day in Burketown. Got some things from the trailer, met some new neighbours and solved all the world's problems, and then read for a while before cooking dinner. Can you tell we are getting a bit bored???? Hopefully the new axle arrived in Townsville today, and will be loaded onto the truck up here soon. Should only take a few hours to fit it up, and then we can be on our way to the NT finally.

More to come soon - hopefully we are back on the road soon - don't plan a long holiday in Burketown anytime soon.

Di and Hammo

Blog 14 - 12th to 22nd July 2013

Friday 12th July - After doing all of our shopping, we stopped at Krys the Crocodile in Normanton for a few photos,

 

and then headed for Karumba on the coast of the Gulf of Carpentaria. This was another 73km's along the road, and the scenery was very bland, with flat barren plains. Had a quick look at the beach and boat ramp,

before lunch at Ash's for barra and chips for me and a barra burger for Di. Back to Normanton for fuel and a new tyre, then the plan was to make it part of the way to Burketown for the night. Stopped at Burke and Wills camp 119 and read the info, and then continued to Leichhardt Falls, arriving in camp very late just before dark at 6.15pm. Had a quick walk, then dinner, where we were welcomed to a group fire already going.

Saturday - had another look around the falls and the lagoons,

 

packed up again, and then drove to Burketown. Not much happening here, so after filling the water tanks, we continued on to Gregory Downs, stopping at the pub for a drink - as you do!!! Some people had told us about a great campsite 10km's down the road beside the river, so we decided to have a look. What a great place this was - camped about 10 metres from the water, and no-one else around. Gave the camper and car a much needed wash, and then went in for a swim before dinner.

 

Absolutely beautiful, and no crocs.

Sunday - decided it was too nice to leave, so spent another day relaxing by the river. Did some washing after breakfast, using our washing barrel and the water from the river. Then went for a walk along the river downstream for about 500 metres, before coming back for a swim. Di did a great painting of the river, while I collected wood for the nights roast dinner in the camp oven - yum.

Monday - packed and then went for another swim, before heading SE towards Burke and Wills roadhouse, where we had an early lunch of hot chips - the simple pleasures. Then continued along the 1 lane bitumen road, passing several road trains before arriving in Julia Creek. Wondered where Amy and James were, so gave them a call - they were calling us at the exact same time to tell us they were in the exact same town. Met them at the info centre, booked into the caravan park, and then went for a swim in the local pool next door. It was really nice to share some stories with them.

Tuesday - after Amy and James left, we went into town to the info centre and saw the Julia Creek Dunnart - a small rat-like critter that was thought extinct until recently.Then got a haircut - badly needed - before departing for Cloncurry further west. Stopped in at Chinaman's Dam for lunch,

and then back into town for 2 nights right beside the highway - road trains are VERY noisy at night as they travel through town.

Wednesday - spent the day looking around Cloncurry,

starting at the info centre and Mary Kathleen centre. A uranium mine was created at a place they called Mary Kathleen, but it has since closed with very little remaining - some has been moved into Cloncurry. Then to the John Flynn Place, who founded the RFDS in Cloncurry back in the 1920's. Check your $20 note and you will see him. Had lunch at the bakery, before visiting the art gallery. Went to Happy Hour at the caravan park, and then joined the footy fans to watch the SOO3 - another loss for NSW, and QLD win 8 series in a row - bloody canetoads!!!!

Thursday - we were planning to go to Mt Isa, but changed plans to instead head to Boulia via Duchess and Dajarra. It was about 330km's out of the way, but the camel races were on, and we were not going to miss that. Got to camp mid-afternoon, and set-up camp next to some lovely fellow travellers for the weekend. Sat around the fire into the evening. The weather had changed a bit, with it becoming windy - so that also made it very dusty, and a lot colder than we were used to over the last few weeks.

Friday - after a lazy morning, we went into town to play tourist, visiting the Min Min Encounter, all about the Min Min lights that follow travellers at night - no explanations as to what causes it, but many theories. Then a short walk to the museum, followed by a bit of shopping before lunch and a lazy afternoon spent chatting. Decided to go back into town that night for the barn dance and dinner - dinner was horrible, but the dance was great fun - lots of money raised for the RFDS.

Saturday - camel race day.

 

What a fun day out, with people from all walks of life joining in the activities. A couple of bookies taking bets, some kids events between races, with the late afternoon event being the camel tagging. Here you could nominate and pay your $20 entry fee. You then started in a small ring with a young scared camel. The clock starts, you grab a piece of gaffer tape, try to stick this to the camel without getting kicked (look very closely below),

run back to the start, and then go back to the camel and try to get the tape off without getting kicked again, and then back to the start - the quickest wins some cash. Absolutely nuts, but a lot of fun for the spectators. Quickest was 22 seconds, with several competitors getting some serious bruises. Got to be crazy. After dinner back at camp, we went back to the race track where the band played well into the evening, and the bar was very busy. Again it was cold and dusty, with some people kicking up dust while dancing. A great day.

Sunday - woke up a little bit slow today, but another day of camel racing so off to the race track we went. Some more races, with the Boulia Cup being run over 1500 metres - this is the equivalent of the Melbourne Cup but for camels. Then they had some wood chopping events, but you could have a go. Decided that I should give it a go, so teamed up with another guy John for the teams event.

We came a reasonable 4th and it was damn hard work.

Another night around the fire sharing stories and wine.

Monday - drove back north 300km's, arriving in Mt Isa at lunch time. Did some shopping and re-stocked the pantry. Then went out again to re-stock the liquor cabinet. It was still quite cold, so we retired to the camper early to type this in bed where it was warmer.

More to come in a week or so.

Di and Hammo

Blog Lucky 13 - 30th June to 11th July 2013

Sunday 30th June - we left Weipa and took the bypass track via Batavia Downs, and then continued to Bramwell Junction Roadhouse, where we were set-up by lunchtime. Had a burger at the roadhouse, and took a drive along the first 4km's of the Overland Telegraph Line (OTL) track to the first creek crossing - Palm Creek - very interesting, and a lot harder than I expected.

 

Back to camp, and I managed to stake a tyre while not looking and drove over a fire grate - an expensive mistake, and a pain to change the tyre with all the dirt and dust. Just as I was finishing this task, a lady came up to us to ask us to rescue her hubbie and 4WD which was stuck in Palm Creek - another drive along the track, and hook up the winch to pull him out of the mud. While I was there some others were coming back south along the track, so spent some time watching them too.

Monday - left the camper at Bramwell, and decided to go for a look at Gunshot and Cockatoo Creek crossings. First was Gunshot, which certainly lived up to its reputation - very steep, very tall and would need a strap on the back to get down.

But there are chicken tracks, so not all that scary. Then onto Cockatoo Creek crossing, which many were saying was the hardest this year - looked to be fairly simple to me, just a bit deep in places. Back to camp for a quiet afternoon.

Tuesday - time to head to the top, stopping in at Fruit Bat Falls for a swim - what a magic place this was, after so many beaches but nowhere to swim due to the croc's.

 

 

 

Then it was a short drive to the Jardine River ferry - $145 for a return journey of about 50 metres, but better than risking the crocs. From here we were booked into Alau Beach at Umagico - an Aboriginal community campground right on the beach - a very magical place indeed.

Wednesday - left camp and drove to Bamaga, Seisia, past Loyalty Beach and then to Lockerbie, where we stopped at the Croc Tent for some info. Then headed for Pajinka (The Tip of Oz) along a narrow bumpy track. Parked the car at another lovely beach,

 

before a short walk over the small rocky hill to finally arrive at the sign saying we were at the northernmost tip of the mainland.

WE HAD FINALLY MADE IT after many, many km's of dust and corrugations. Then back to camp for some lunch and relaxing before another sunset.

Thursday - what an appropriate day to do the tour to Thursday Island and Horn Island. We were really looking forward to this day out. The ride over on the small boat was rough, meaning the return journey was going to be worse. Once on the island, we had a look around town before the taxi picked us up for our tour of the island - the fort and cemetry were interesting, but the rest of the tour was a let down.

After lunch at the pub, it was back to the boat for a quick trip to Horn Island, after a quick diversion to buy a crayfish tail to cook up the next day. The museum at Horn Island was OK with a lot of info on WWII and pearl diving, but that was all we saw on the island. Back on the boat, and the return journey was VERY rough, and we got soaked in the 2 hours it took to get back to Seisia. Not a very good tour (in my opinion anyway).

Friday - went for a walk along the beach before breakfast, and then ended up having a very lazy day chatting to all of our neighbours about their travels etc. We were camped next to a Tasmanian cray fisherman, so he and his wife gave us tips on how to cook the tail we had bought the previous day - we both loved it - finally another seafood that I really like. Cooking instructions were to boil for 2-3 minutes which helps to release the flesh from the shell, and then fry in butter - yummo.

Saturday - got up early, and left camp at 8.30am for the trip back to the Jardine, and then our overnight camp at Eliot Falls campground along a very rough track. A quick set-up and then time for a swim - this is what we had been looking forward to. Had a swim at The Saucepan first,

and then wandered down past Eliot Falls for some photos,

and finally to Twin Falls for another swim.

Back to camp for lunch, before another swim at The Saucepan in the afternoon. I can now see why this was so hard to book a site for.

Sunday - went for another swim before breakfast, before packing again, and continued south to Bramwell to pick-up our alcohol we had left before heading north - BIG fines for too much alcohol in Aboriginal communities. Stopped in at Bramwell Station, but the festival had finished - missed it by 2 hours - and then continued on south, with lunch at the Wenlock River, and camping at the Archer River Roadhouse for the night.

Monday - continued south via Coen, and then stopped at Musgrave to ask about the road conditions across to the Gulf - we were told it was quite good but with a few patches that were not recently graded. We met another couple who were also wanting to go this way so joined up with them for the trip. The first 80km's were perfect, with lovely smooth gravel and 80-90km/h. But once we caught the road crew and their graders, it fast became worse, and was more like a 2-wheel track, with patches of bulldust to catch you out for the next 30km's. Then it became good again, and a friendly water truck driver suggested camping at the Alice River a bit further up the road. Spent the night chatting with Elly and John, and brushing dust aside.

Tuesday - continued on with Elly and John until we met the Burke Development Road, and from here it was good road all the way into Normanton. Met a 3-trailer petrol tanker road train along the road, and made sure we pulled right off to give him all the track he needed - the dust they kick up is amazing. As we arrived in Normanton, we booked our tour on the Gulflander train, and accomodation in Croydon, with a return train journey the next day. Settled into the caravan park and had a swim in the big pool - was nice to go swimming again after a 32C day.

Wednesday - up early to be at the station by 8.00am for our train journey to Croydon on the Gulflander - a 151km, 5 hour trip on the heritage listed train and tracks.

The rail motor was built in 1950, and the motor driving it was 78 years old, with a top speed of only 30 mph. The railway was built in 1891 using a steel sleeper system due to the sand and floods along the line. This makes it able to withstand the harsh conditions, but also makes it very bumpy. The line was originally built for the gold rush in Croydon, bringing supplies to the town, and taking the gold out to the port for sale. Arrived in Croydon, and spent some time having a look around at all of the historical buildings, including the courthouse, police quarters and jail.

Stayed at the pub that night,

and chatted with the Gulflander crew into the late evening over several beers and dinner.

Thursday - another early morning to meet the train again at 8.00am for the return journey to Normanton. Stopped along the way at the Norman River bridge to get some photos of the Gulflander crossing the bridge,

before jumping back on board for the final part into town. Too hot for lunch, so back into the pool for a cool-off. Still quite warm as I type this at 9.15pm, so will be another night without the covers on.

More to come soon

Di and Hammo