Blog 14 - 12th to 22nd July 2013

Friday 12th July - After doing all of our shopping, we stopped at Krys the Crocodile in Normanton for a few photos,

 

and then headed for Karumba on the coast of the Gulf of Carpentaria. This was another 73km's along the road, and the scenery was very bland, with flat barren plains. Had a quick look at the beach and boat ramp,

before lunch at Ash's for barra and chips for me and a barra burger for Di. Back to Normanton for fuel and a new tyre, then the plan was to make it part of the way to Burketown for the night. Stopped at Burke and Wills camp 119 and read the info, and then continued to Leichhardt Falls, arriving in camp very late just before dark at 6.15pm. Had a quick walk, then dinner, where we were welcomed to a group fire already going.

Saturday - had another look around the falls and the lagoons,

 

packed up again, and then drove to Burketown. Not much happening here, so after filling the water tanks, we continued on to Gregory Downs, stopping at the pub for a drink - as you do!!! Some people had told us about a great campsite 10km's down the road beside the river, so we decided to have a look. What a great place this was - camped about 10 metres from the water, and no-one else around. Gave the camper and car a much needed wash, and then went in for a swim before dinner.

 

Absolutely beautiful, and no crocs.

Sunday - decided it was too nice to leave, so spent another day relaxing by the river. Did some washing after breakfast, using our washing barrel and the water from the river. Then went for a walk along the river downstream for about 500 metres, before coming back for a swim. Di did a great painting of the river, while I collected wood for the nights roast dinner in the camp oven - yum.

Monday - packed and then went for another swim, before heading SE towards Burke and Wills roadhouse, where we had an early lunch of hot chips - the simple pleasures. Then continued along the 1 lane bitumen road, passing several road trains before arriving in Julia Creek. Wondered where Amy and James were, so gave them a call - they were calling us at the exact same time to tell us they were in the exact same town. Met them at the info centre, booked into the caravan park, and then went for a swim in the local pool next door. It was really nice to share some stories with them.

Tuesday - after Amy and James left, we went into town to the info centre and saw the Julia Creek Dunnart - a small rat-like critter that was thought extinct until recently.Then got a haircut - badly needed - before departing for Cloncurry further west. Stopped in at Chinaman's Dam for lunch,

and then back into town for 2 nights right beside the highway - road trains are VERY noisy at night as they travel through town.

Wednesday - spent the day looking around Cloncurry,

starting at the info centre and Mary Kathleen centre. A uranium mine was created at a place they called Mary Kathleen, but it has since closed with very little remaining - some has been moved into Cloncurry. Then to the John Flynn Place, who founded the RFDS in Cloncurry back in the 1920's. Check your $20 note and you will see him. Had lunch at the bakery, before visiting the art gallery. Went to Happy Hour at the caravan park, and then joined the footy fans to watch the SOO3 - another loss for NSW, and QLD win 8 series in a row - bloody canetoads!!!!

Thursday - we were planning to go to Mt Isa, but changed plans to instead head to Boulia via Duchess and Dajarra. It was about 330km's out of the way, but the camel races were on, and we were not going to miss that. Got to camp mid-afternoon, and set-up camp next to some lovely fellow travellers for the weekend. Sat around the fire into the evening. The weather had changed a bit, with it becoming windy - so that also made it very dusty, and a lot colder than we were used to over the last few weeks.

Friday - after a lazy morning, we went into town to play tourist, visiting the Min Min Encounter, all about the Min Min lights that follow travellers at night - no explanations as to what causes it, but many theories. Then a short walk to the museum, followed by a bit of shopping before lunch and a lazy afternoon spent chatting. Decided to go back into town that night for the barn dance and dinner - dinner was horrible, but the dance was great fun - lots of money raised for the RFDS.

Saturday - camel race day.

 

What a fun day out, with people from all walks of life joining in the activities. A couple of bookies taking bets, some kids events between races, with the late afternoon event being the camel tagging. Here you could nominate and pay your $20 entry fee. You then started in a small ring with a young scared camel. The clock starts, you grab a piece of gaffer tape, try to stick this to the camel without getting kicked (look very closely below),

run back to the start, and then go back to the camel and try to get the tape off without getting kicked again, and then back to the start - the quickest wins some cash. Absolutely nuts, but a lot of fun for the spectators. Quickest was 22 seconds, with several competitors getting some serious bruises. Got to be crazy. After dinner back at camp, we went back to the race track where the band played well into the evening, and the bar was very busy. Again it was cold and dusty, with some people kicking up dust while dancing. A great day.

Sunday - woke up a little bit slow today, but another day of camel racing so off to the race track we went. Some more races, with the Boulia Cup being run over 1500 metres - this is the equivalent of the Melbourne Cup but for camels. Then they had some wood chopping events, but you could have a go. Decided that I should give it a go, so teamed up with another guy John for the teams event.

We came a reasonable 4th and it was damn hard work.

Another night around the fire sharing stories and wine.

Monday - drove back north 300km's, arriving in Mt Isa at lunch time. Did some shopping and re-stocked the pantry. Then went out again to re-stock the liquor cabinet. It was still quite cold, so we retired to the camper early to type this in bed where it was warmer.

More to come in a week or so.

Di and Hammo

Blog Lucky 13 - 30th June to 11th July 2013

Sunday 30th June - we left Weipa and took the bypass track via Batavia Downs, and then continued to Bramwell Junction Roadhouse, where we were set-up by lunchtime. Had a burger at the roadhouse, and took a drive along the first 4km's of the Overland Telegraph Line (OTL) track to the first creek crossing - Palm Creek - very interesting, and a lot harder than I expected.

 

Back to camp, and I managed to stake a tyre while not looking and drove over a fire grate - an expensive mistake, and a pain to change the tyre with all the dirt and dust. Just as I was finishing this task, a lady came up to us to ask us to rescue her hubbie and 4WD which was stuck in Palm Creek - another drive along the track, and hook up the winch to pull him out of the mud. While I was there some others were coming back south along the track, so spent some time watching them too.

Monday - left the camper at Bramwell, and decided to go for a look at Gunshot and Cockatoo Creek crossings. First was Gunshot, which certainly lived up to its reputation - very steep, very tall and would need a strap on the back to get down.

But there are chicken tracks, so not all that scary. Then onto Cockatoo Creek crossing, which many were saying was the hardest this year - looked to be fairly simple to me, just a bit deep in places. Back to camp for a quiet afternoon.

Tuesday - time to head to the top, stopping in at Fruit Bat Falls for a swim - what a magic place this was, after so many beaches but nowhere to swim due to the croc's.

 

 

 

Then it was a short drive to the Jardine River ferry - $145 for a return journey of about 50 metres, but better than risking the crocs. From here we were booked into Alau Beach at Umagico - an Aboriginal community campground right on the beach - a very magical place indeed.

Wednesday - left camp and drove to Bamaga, Seisia, past Loyalty Beach and then to Lockerbie, where we stopped at the Croc Tent for some info. Then headed for Pajinka (The Tip of Oz) along a narrow bumpy track. Parked the car at another lovely beach,

 

before a short walk over the small rocky hill to finally arrive at the sign saying we were at the northernmost tip of the mainland.

WE HAD FINALLY MADE IT after many, many km's of dust and corrugations. Then back to camp for some lunch and relaxing before another sunset.

Thursday - what an appropriate day to do the tour to Thursday Island and Horn Island. We were really looking forward to this day out. The ride over on the small boat was rough, meaning the return journey was going to be worse. Once on the island, we had a look around town before the taxi picked us up for our tour of the island - the fort and cemetry were interesting, but the rest of the tour was a let down.

After lunch at the pub, it was back to the boat for a quick trip to Horn Island, after a quick diversion to buy a crayfish tail to cook up the next day. The museum at Horn Island was OK with a lot of info on WWII and pearl diving, but that was all we saw on the island. Back on the boat, and the return journey was VERY rough, and we got soaked in the 2 hours it took to get back to Seisia. Not a very good tour (in my opinion anyway).

Friday - went for a walk along the beach before breakfast, and then ended up having a very lazy day chatting to all of our neighbours about their travels etc. We were camped next to a Tasmanian cray fisherman, so he and his wife gave us tips on how to cook the tail we had bought the previous day - we both loved it - finally another seafood that I really like. Cooking instructions were to boil for 2-3 minutes which helps to release the flesh from the shell, and then fry in butter - yummo.

Saturday - got up early, and left camp at 8.30am for the trip back to the Jardine, and then our overnight camp at Eliot Falls campground along a very rough track. A quick set-up and then time for a swim - this is what we had been looking forward to. Had a swim at The Saucepan first,

and then wandered down past Eliot Falls for some photos,

and finally to Twin Falls for another swim.

Back to camp for lunch, before another swim at The Saucepan in the afternoon. I can now see why this was so hard to book a site for.

Sunday - went for another swim before breakfast, before packing again, and continued south to Bramwell to pick-up our alcohol we had left before heading north - BIG fines for too much alcohol in Aboriginal communities. Stopped in at Bramwell Station, but the festival had finished - missed it by 2 hours - and then continued on south, with lunch at the Wenlock River, and camping at the Archer River Roadhouse for the night.

Monday - continued south via Coen, and then stopped at Musgrave to ask about the road conditions across to the Gulf - we were told it was quite good but with a few patches that were not recently graded. We met another couple who were also wanting to go this way so joined up with them for the trip. The first 80km's were perfect, with lovely smooth gravel and 80-90km/h. But once we caught the road crew and their graders, it fast became worse, and was more like a 2-wheel track, with patches of bulldust to catch you out for the next 30km's. Then it became good again, and a friendly water truck driver suggested camping at the Alice River a bit further up the road. Spent the night chatting with Elly and John, and brushing dust aside.

Tuesday - continued on with Elly and John until we met the Burke Development Road, and from here it was good road all the way into Normanton. Met a 3-trailer petrol tanker road train along the road, and made sure we pulled right off to give him all the track he needed - the dust they kick up is amazing. As we arrived in Normanton, we booked our tour on the Gulflander train, and accomodation in Croydon, with a return train journey the next day. Settled into the caravan park and had a swim in the big pool - was nice to go swimming again after a 32C day.

Wednesday - up early to be at the station by 8.00am for our train journey to Croydon on the Gulflander - a 151km, 5 hour trip on the heritage listed train and tracks.

The rail motor was built in 1950, and the motor driving it was 78 years old, with a top speed of only 30 mph. The railway was built in 1891 using a steel sleeper system due to the sand and floods along the line. This makes it able to withstand the harsh conditions, but also makes it very bumpy. The line was originally built for the gold rush in Croydon, bringing supplies to the town, and taking the gold out to the port for sale. Arrived in Croydon, and spent some time having a look around at all of the historical buildings, including the courthouse, police quarters and jail.

Stayed at the pub that night,

and chatted with the Gulflander crew into the late evening over several beers and dinner.

Thursday - another early morning to meet the train again at 8.00am for the return journey to Normanton. Stopped along the way at the Norman River bridge to get some photos of the Gulflander crossing the bridge,

before jumping back on board for the final part into town. Too hot for lunch, so back into the pool for a cool-off. Still quite warm as I type this at 9.15pm, so will be another night without the covers on.

More to come soon

Di and Hammo

Blog 12 - 16th to 29th June 2013

Sunday 16th June - After our night at Paronella Park, we packed the camper again, and decided to spend some more time looking around this amazing place. Went back through all of the park again and also across the falls to the park on the other side for some different views. Then it was time to head towards Tully, stopping at Kurrimine Beach for a quick look, and then onto Bingal Bay and Mission Beach. Decided to head out to Tully Gorge about 45km's NW and stay the night in the National Park.

The water looked really inviting, but the crocodile signs on the edge determined there would be no swimming.

Gave the car and camper a quick wash using the tap in the campground.

Monday - the Triton is booked in for a service at 1PM, so back into Tully for a quick look around and find some replacement wheel bearings just in case. While the car is being serviced, I replaced the right side wheel bearings and brakes just to be safe. Once all finished, it was heading north again to stay at The Boulders, a free campsite near the swimming hole from a few days ago. Met a lovely French couple who were travelling for several weeks, and we swapped stories.

Tuesday - drove back into Babinda, and stopped at the free camp for a shower - $2 for 4 minutes. Then drove north to Gordonvale, where we turned left and climbed up into the Atherton Tablelands and took the turn-off to Lake Tinaroo. Stopped at the Cathedral fig tree for a short walk - wow, that thing is huge - and then finally got mobile reception to book our campsite at Kauri campground right on the lake. Another really special place to camp.

Met up with some people we had met in Porcupine Gorge and Cobbold Gorge.

Wednesday - we decided to play tourist and look around the Atherton Tablelands, stopping in at Atherton, then onto Malanda for morning tea. Then to Lake Eacham, a volcanic lake which is 65 metres deep, and crystal clear for swimming.

Then onto the next volcanic lake, Lake Barrine,

where a boat can take you on a cruise. They had a really nice garden, and a short walk to some 600 year old kauri pine trees that were HUGE. Went back to Lake Eacham for a swim, which was really nice, before heading back to camp at Lake Tinaroo and sitting around the fire.

Thursday - back on the road heading north, firstly to Mareeba, before turning right and going to Kuranda and Barron Falls.

Did the walk down to the railway station and watched as the train from Cairns came in. Back to Kuranda for a walk around and some lunch before heading down the mountain to just above Cairns,

and then heading north. Stopped in at Port Douglas, had a quick stop at the lookout, and a drive around town, before continuing on to Mossman where we stopped at the caravan park for the night.

Friday - went up to the visitor centre at Mossman Gorge, and caught the bus to the top of the tracks to do some walking - covered about 3.5km's through the rainforest.

Stopped at the waterhole for a swim, but Di only got half-way in (too cold) but it was very refreshing - lots of fish in the water too, and the water was running fairly quickly.

Had a quick lunch, and then continued north to Cape Tribulation, after catching the car ferry across the Daintree River. Camped in a place right on the beach,

and got chatting to a big group from SA who were on their way back from the Cape - lots of great stories to tell, and hints to pass on. Shared a pizza and some wine before reitring to bed a lot later than usual.

Saturday - the adventure begins - today we get to drive the Bloomfield Track along the coast up to Cooktown. Some VERY steep climbs and descents, with 1st low-range needed even on the concreted pathways. Stopped in at Bloomfield Falls,

where they had more crocodile warning signs - something that would continue for quite a while. Walked very warily, and took photos quickly just in case THEY were watching. Continued on to the Lions Den Hotel, and had a drink while we read the walls. A quick side trip to look at Little Annan Gorge

before driving into Cooktown.

Spent some time looking around the Captain Cook Museum, and then 15km's out of town to tonights camp, Endeavour River Escape, which is a caravan park, but is more like bush camping with facilities - very nice, and cheaper than staying in town too.

Sunday - back into Cooktown for a re-fuel and re-stock of food, before driving along Battlecamp Road into Lakefield NP. Had lunch and a quick look around Old Laura homestead,

and then continued onto the lily lagoons. First it was the white lillies, which covered the lagoon. Another couple of km's up the road we stopped at the red lily lagoon, which were quite different, and there was only 2 that were in flower. Continued onto Hann Crossing campsite where we stayed the night right beside the river - again, more croc signs. Got a fire going, and cooked a roast - YUM.

Monday - packed early and left camp at 8.45am. By 9.15am it was already 27 degrees. Drove west, making a note of the termite mounds that were all facing north-south.

Then onto Musgrave for a re-fuel,

and then continued north along the Peninsula Development Road (PDR), stopping at Coen, before deciding that the free campsite 3km's north would be a nice place for the night. Found a spot amongst the other campers, and sat by the small river  - no croc signs, but still very wary about going in. After seeing many other people swimming and splashing in the water, decided it should be OK, but was always watchful. It was SOOOO nice to cool off and wash some dust off.

Tuesday - went for another swim before breakfast, and after packing up, continued north to Archer River roadhouse for a re-fuel again, before taking the right turn for the 110km trip out to the east coast to Chilli Beach. Got to camp just as it was starting to drizzle, but not enough rain to worry about. But it was windy, which is normal - luckily we were camped behind the trees and were protected from the wind. Had a quick walk along the beach,

 

again being always wary of the crocs that might jump out.

Wednesday - with the crazy National Parks booking system, we could only get 1 night at Chilli Beach, but got a 2nd night just back down the road at Cooks Hut. So as we were only driving a short distance, we decided to drive to the end of the road to Portland Roads

and have a coffee, before deciding on lunch, all at the same cafe. A really nice spot, but very small and in the middle of nowhere - but they seem to get enough people passing through. Back along the road to Cooks Hut for the night, where we met our neighbours and shared the fire while listening to the S.O.O.2.

Thursday - back 85km's to the PDR, and up a short distance, before turning left for the 120 km trip to Weipa out on the west coast. It is a bauxite mining town,

and a population of 3,500. Booked into the caravan park for 3 nights.

Friday - went to go for a look around the town of Weipa - there is nothing here!!!! With the amount of people, we were expecting a decent shopping centre, and some things to do. But there was only 1 small shopping mall with about 8 shops, and not much else to do except fish, which neither of us do. Had a lazy relaxing day, but caught a wonderful sunset.

Saturday - the plan for today was to drive north along the west coast, and then head into a small place called Pennefather River and drive along the beach. What a beautiful place this was, with green and blue water, reefs just off the shore, and nice white sand.

But again more croc signs, so no swimming. Drove back to Weipa, stopping at Red Beach for lunch by the water (no swimming here either) We then moved sites in the caravan park to a powered site to recharge the batteries. Di spent some time booking the next weeks worth of camping sites at the tip and also at Eliot Falls.

Tomorrow we will continue our trip north, with the plan to spend some time looking at the Old Telegraph Track, and swimming in the waterfalls and rivers (without croc signs so should be all good).

More to come soon.

Di and Hammo